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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 R Ship of Fools Trad 40m

Awful. It has been repeated and others should spare themselves the experience.

Start: Start 15 metres left of 'Oceanoid'. It's supposed to be 1 metre right of all of the mank but it's hard to tell the difference between that and the climb. There's a low roof above a slab.

  1. 15m (16) Go up to roof, over large, hopefully, jammed block and on to a stance below the steepening.

  2. 25m (15) Up slightly right on steep, fragile rock then straight up.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1987

2
19 Shipboard Romance Trad 40m

The start shared with Ship Of Fools is not good but things appear to improve after that. They would want to.

Start: Start as for Ship Of Fools.

  1. 10m (19) Up to roof and move right over it to climb lichenous left-leading grrove just left of Damned Whores.

  2. 15m (18) Go up into orange concave and take obvious cracks diagonally up left to stance.

  3. 15m (17) Climb the overhangs directly above at their widest point.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns (alt), 1987

3

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Transatlantic Crossing', 10 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.

  1. 25m (19) Up slab, not well-protected, through overlap to roof. Undercling this left then up through the orange concave and finish right to belay.

  2. 15m (18) Left-hand crack through roof.

FA: Maureen Gallagher, Karen Strojek, 1984

4

Start: Start 8 metres left of 'Oceanoid', 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.

  1. 25m (18) Up vague corner to bulge, right around it and up to overhang. Traverse left then up easily.

  2. 15m (18) Take right-hand crack through overhang.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns (alt), 1980

5
21 Rainbow Warrior Trad 40m

Start: Start as for 'Transatlantic Crossing', 8 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.

  1. 25m (21) Up corner-line as for 'Transatlantic Crossing' to bulge. Continue straight through bulge (pro is difficult), then up groove to belay.

  2. 15m (20) The overhanging rib just right of the right-hand crack (Transatlantic Crossing)

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese (alt), 1985

6

Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one.

Start: Start 6 metres left of 'Oceanoid', 2 metres right of 'Transatlantic Crossing', at short right-slanting orange corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese (alt), 2000

7

You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks.

Start: Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.

  1. 30m (20) Climb the rib to the diagonal bulge of Voyage Of The Damned. Go straight through bulge and step right to tiny stance. Climb thin flake up slab and move left to belay as for 'Rainbow Warrior'.

  2. 15m (20) The overhanging rib on the right as for 'Rainbow Warrior'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, James Falla (alt), 1986

8
19 * Halfway Damned Trad 44m

This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of 'Halfway Handsome' but it is difficult to say by how much.

Start: Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.

9
21 * Halfway Handsome Trad 45m

Great route. The original write-up has caused some confusion and given rise to the "Halfway Damned" variant.

Start: Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.

FA: Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson, Peter Woodfield, 1983

10
21 * Raise the Titanic Trad 52m

Best done as a single mega-pitch although a semi0hanging belay can be had in "Oceanoid".

Start: Start 1 metre left of "Oceanoid".

FA: Eric Jones, Chris Baxter (alt), 1986

11
18 *** Oceanoid Trad 110m

Fantastic climb.

The original route climbed the first pitch of 'Courage' until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better.

Start: Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behindlarge callitris pine.

  1. 45m (18) Follow the corner for 17 metres, protection is spaced for first few metres. Move left at chalked-up weakness into a diagonal scooped line. Follow this to below roof and move left to terrace.

  2. 30m (17) Pull through the first easy weakness on left side of overhangs. Traverse 3 metres right (stay low) and make an airy step across a gap. Take line leading straight up into awkward bottomless chimney. Easy chimney leads to terrace. Scramble off left of climb short wall to base of "French Crack".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Shelton. First pitch as now done, Glen Tempest & Keith Egerton, July 76, 1976

12
19 Courage Trad 42m

Rotten rock.

Start: Start as for 'Oceanoid'.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Dick Laurence (1 aid), 1969

13
17 Carlton Trad 42m

An easier version of 'Courage'.

Start: The right-hand inset corner.

FA: Peter Canning, 1969

14

looks quite daunting for the grade.

FA: John Chapman, Peter Watson, 1976

15

Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace.

FA: James Falla, Jon Bassindale, 1991

16
22 Trenchsetter Trad 30m

Looking from the ground, there are three overhanging noses high on the left, pitch 2 takes the middle one. Finishing up 'Cold Storage' makes a good finish, but the gear on it is as bad as the guide suggests.

Start: Starts at the left end of the half way ledge on 'Oceanoid', right of the first nose with 'Sport Climb This You Bastards'.

  1. 15m (21) Up the undercut arête left of 'Oceanoid' Pitch 2 then meander up mank to belay under roof.

  2. 15m (22) Take the crack through the roof above you. At the lip, swing left on jugs to exit.

FA: Wendy Eden, Mike Raine, 2004

17

This is an OK alternative to second ptich of "Oceanoid" if you've been here before.

Start: Start as for pitch 2 of "Oceanoid"

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong, 1979

18
20 * Close to the Edge Trad 38m

The first of the sensational traverses in this area.

Start: Start as for "Left Side Of The Ocean".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Keith Egerton, 1976

19
21 *** Trinity Wall Trad 30m

Outrageous traverse. Take lots of slings, double ropes if you have them and a solid second.

Start: Start as for second pitch of "Oceanoid".

FA: Chris Shepherd, Jim Thomas, 1982

20
25 * The Bradford Lads Trad 55m

Greasy, flaring crack leading to steep wall.

Start: Start at the crack leading to the white-marbled corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Marty Beare, 1983

21
23 * Atlantis Trad 75m

A dramatic outing with a desperate bouldery start that is strenuous to protect. It was originally climbed with a massive diversion out left into "Oceanoid".

Start: Start right of "The Bradford lads" at the left of 2 weaknesses through the huge roof.

  1. 25m (23) Straight up crack over bulge, then up to big pockets in "Aftermath" (medium cams). Traverse left, below the line of "Aftermath" on more good pockets then up and veer right to anchor as for "Aftermath". Either rap 50 metres to ground, back-clean or do pitch 2.

  2. 30m (18) Up past old carrot bolts to move left into exposed hanging off-width and up to a ledge. Up the middle of the wall above.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff via a big diversion out left. First pitch as described : Matt Rawlinson, 1977

22
25 R ** Dead Americans Trad 25m

Wild roofing country with a dangerous start that can be avoided by starting up either of "Atlantis" or "Aftermath".

Start: Belay as for the start of "Atlantis"

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

23
25 R *** Aftermath Trad 30m

An overdose of overhang, originally done as a post-exam celebration.

Start: The right-hand weakness through the overhang, right of "Atlantis"

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1969

24
26 * Aerial Boundaries Mixed 15m, 1

The bulge right of "Aftermath", over roof past bolt to "Trinity wall" anchor.

FA: Scott Camps, Alistair Mark, 1989

25

Start: Start on ledge right of 'Aftermath' where the line of 'Five Fingered Mary' cuts through.

  1. 30m (22) The obvious falke on right wall of chimney. Strenuously up to step across right, and rest. Easily to ledge.

  2. 30m (19) Straight up the face to next ledge, the Tennis Court. Scramble off left to 'French Crack' descent.

FA: Tony Dignan, Greg Child, 1987

26
14 * Jezebel Trad 140m

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant.

Start: Start as for "Hurricane Lamp Cracks".

  1. 35m (13) Up "Hurricane Lamp Cracks", stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance.

  2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

  3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace. It is possible to walk off from here but seeing as you've come this far...

  4. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

  5. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of "French Crack".

FA: Chris Baxter, Darryl Carr, 1967

27
19 R * Five Fingered Mary Trad 120m

A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious.

Start: Start below the huge cleft.

  1. 42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.

  2. 24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.

  3. 24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.

  4. 15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.

FA: Pitch 1 : Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst., 1967

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood some aids, variant finish 13., 1974

FA: roof finish : Greg Child, Andrew Thomson, 1976

FA: Baxter, Stone removed the aids in., 1978

28

Start as for Pevarication. Go up and left then traverse right to finish up the prow above the crux of 'Prevarication'.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1985

29
18 R Prevarication Trad 97m

Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about.

Start: Start on the buttress between 'Five Fingered Mary' and 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks' below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.

  1. 43m (18) Climb overhang at 8 metres and continue up chimney-corner to large ledge.

  2. 24m (8) The corner-crack and walls to ledge.

  3. 30m (15) Aparsely protect wall above to the Tennis Court.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1979

30

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible.

Start: Start at the chimney 7 metres right of "Five Fingered Mary".

  1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

  2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

  3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

  4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

  5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of "Spiral Staircase" and may be split as for that climb.

FA: Chris Baxter, Reg Williams, 1965

31
23 Fat Dude Trad 30m

Climb orange nose on right.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Paul Daniels, 1981

32
10 ** The Shroud Trad 110m

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos.

Start: Start 9 metres right of "Hurricane Lamp Cracks" at the foot of a deep crack.

  1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

  2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

  3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

  4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of "Spiral Staircase" and may be split as for that climb.

FA: Unknown, 1965

33
9 ** Spiral Staircase Trad 100m

Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

  1. 43m (9) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

  2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

  3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

  4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Steve Craddock, 17th Nov

34
19 R Kirsty and Jo's Climb Trad 45m

Start: Scramble up slab of rock right of 'Spiral Staircase' to steeper rock.

  1. 30m (19) Wend way up to short, tricky right-facing corner in middle of face and up to large ledge below prominent orange roof.

  2. 25m (19) Up wall just right of roof (shared with NE Ridge Of The Pharos) then step left and straight up poorly protected wall. The pitch can also be finished by trending left.

FA: Kirsty Hamilton, Jo Hofmann. Pitch 1 as described : Louise Shepherd, Deniis Kemp., 1990

35
10 Samos Trad 110m

The line right of 'The Shroud' and left of 'Spiral Staircase'. The original line of 'Spiral Staircase' went somewhere about the first pitch of this. The second pitch traversed off below the roofs to the line that is climbed now.

Start: Start on the North east shoulder of the Pharos right of TS.

  1. 40m (10) Wander up to pick up a little R facing corner 3m right of 'The Shroud'. Follow this corner to belay 5m below roofs.

  2. 30m (10) Right of the roof pitch on 'The Shroud' is two bits of orange rock capped by roofs. 'Samos' takes the thin patch of grey rock between them past an old pin through a break in the roofs. Then up wall on jugs to join 'Spiral Staircase'.

  3. 5m (-) Scramble up short wall as for 'Spiral Staircase'.

  4. 35m (-) Do the top pitch of SS.

FA: Pritchard, Con Frances, 1996

36
17 The Shipping News Trad 73m

Takes the hanging buttress between 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks'

and 'The Shroud'.

Start: Start as for 'The Shroud'.

  1. 28m (10) As for 'The Shroud'.

  2. 20m (17) Seam between 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks' and 'Fat Dude' until horizontal crack leads right to front of buttress. Up to good ledge.

  3. 25m (17) Bridge deep line on right side of buttress (just left of The Shroud's third pitch). Traverse onto front of buttress, through overhang and up line to the Tennis Court.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2000

37
17 * Throwim way leg Trad 30m

If you only scare yourself on one route this year, make this the one. A fantastically scary (but safe) through a large roof a long way up the Pharos. The best grade 16 roof at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start from the right hand end of the large ledge at the end of Spiral Staircase's 2nd pitch beneath a crack through a roof. Its most obvious feature is the 'map of Italy' hanging down.

  1. 6m (17) Up to roof and out to stance and belay.

  2. 24m (17) Step back left over the void and up. The top pitch of Spiral can be done to finish.

  3. -m (-) A third pitch has been done by stepping across and climbing the wall left of the top pitch of Spiral. Eric Jones, Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, sometime in 2001

FA: Kieran Loughran, Greg Pritchard, 1999