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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 Riot or Wrong Trad 15m

Left line on little wall 15 metres down and left of the start of 'Lamplighter'. Used to have a bolt near the start but it is gone.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Josh Holko, 1992

2
25 Raptures of the Steep Mixed 15m, 1

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin but that appears to have gone. Be careful on this and its companion climb as it is very easy to get into groundfall territory and it's a nasty landing.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

3

Start: Start just left of 'Lamplighter' at slick, wide, left-leaning crack.

  1. 25m (17) 'Grovel' along the crack. Frome ledge above go left and scramble up to higher ledge.

  2. 22m (17) Up right-facing flake. Continue up to big ledge.

  3. 35m (18) Starting just right of big roof go up on suspect rock and move right to arete. Follow nose up arete on right and then left, whichever is easier to dramatic mossy exit. This pitch used to finish up a deep line some way right of the arete.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Glenn Tempest (alt), 1980

4
21 * Braindrops Trad 35m

Steep jammimg with wall-climbing to follow.

Start: Start as for "Lamplighter"

  1. 12m (-) Up "Lamplighter" to below the flake-crack on the left wall.

  2. 23m (21) Jamming up the left-leading flake-crack and up to the first belay on "Lamplighter". continue up short corner to big ledge.

  3. 40m (21) Up seam in gently overhanging wall then easily to the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young., 1977

FA: Final pitch : Paul Deacon, Clive Curson., 2000

5
16 Lady Dihedral Trad 78m

A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless.

Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter".

FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter, Paul Danials, 1981

6
14 *** Lamplighter Trad 78m

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

FA: 1965

7
21 Cycle Sluts Trad 60m

Start: Start at a flake 19 metres right of 'Lamplighter'.

  1. 20m (-) 'Flake' and crack to join 'Lamplighter' below bulge. Over bulge and belay.

  2. 15m (22) Follow thin corner-flake above, just left of the start of 'Judgement Day', to belay in 'Lamplighter' level with 'Parallels'.

  3. 25m (-) Walk off left (or do 'Parallels' (25)).

FA: Glenn Tempest, Seamus Brennan, 1981

8
25 * Parallels Trad 50m

Another girdle of the back wall of the Pharos taking the next horizontal line above 'Judgement Day'.

Start: Start in 'Lamplighter' at the left end of the break.

  1. 25m (22) Move around corner and follow break to belay in 'Judgement Day'.

  2. 15m (25) Follow 'Judgement Day' to start but keep going right where it goes up. Continue right at this level to join 'Trojan' on the arete. Remember to leave back-runners for your second!

  3. 10m (-) Follow 'Trojan' to ledge.

FA: Pitch 1: Glenn Tempest, Seamus Brennan. Full route : Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1981

9
20 *** Judgement Day Trad 110m

A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout.

Start: Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.

  1. 27m (10) Follow the ramp of "Lamplighter" until it runs out. Up to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Step up right and onto right wall. Mantleshelf then traverse right past a bolt into "Kingdom Come".

  3. 15m (19) Traverse right, and up the diagonal crack to ledge. It is possible to move up from the traverse to the bolt on "Give me Convenience..." at about the same grade but it adds nothing to the route.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (2 aids), 1973

10
28 *** Slopin' Sleazin' Trad 20m

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove right of the start to 'Lamplighter' past 3 bolts. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at 'Arapiles'.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

11
24 ** Open Season Trad 58m

Exposed and daring with a run-out second pitch in exciting territory.

Start: Start as for "Second Coming"

  1. 22m (22) As for "Breaking Glass".

  2. 20m (24) Up twin cracks and over bulge. Move right and mantle small ledge. Up right to dodgy pin (backup with #5 RP), then right and up wall to ledge. 30 metre rappel.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger, 1980

12
22 * Breaking Glass Trad 40m

Good, but most people will aim to do 'Open Season' instead.

Start: Start as for 'The Second Coming'.

  1. 20m (22) Follow 'The Second Coming' to corner and continue left to another tiny corner. Up this and left to belay below twin cracks (Open Season).

  2. 20m (22) Up 'Open Season' to horizontal break. Traverse diagonally up and left into 'Lamplighter'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

13
23 R * Come Again Unknown 30m

Climb the 1st pitch of Second Coming until you encounter a hanging nose about 4m shy of the belay. Step left and boulder into a tiny corner before moving up to pass a small overlap which can be climbed direct or on its left. Slabby moves follow before a final easy crack leads to the anchors for open season. 'Small' RP's and small cams protect the moves above Second Coming however placing them on lead is a tad pokey and pumpy - you have been warned!

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Muki Woods, 2009

14
22 *** The Second Coming Trad 57m

The only three star 22 at Araps

Start: Immediately beside 'Kingdom Come'

  1. 27m (22) From 'Kingdom Come' take the rising line (awkward)up L to a shallow corner. Up this to a mantle on 'Judgement Day' traverse. From the top of the pedestal, up wall tending right to join Kingdom Comes second pitch.

  2. 30m (21) Step R into hanging crack and up to ledge. Move back L and up, keeping just L of the arete.

15
23 Raspberries Trad 42m

Hopelessly contrived. There's logic to it but in practice it's all too close to Second Coming.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Garnham, 1981

16
20 * Kingdom Come Trad 52m

An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing.

Start: Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos.

  1. 12m (20) Hard start on slopers (place a wire with a long stick for protection) leads into the V-chimney. Bridge up to a small ledge on the right.

  2. 22m (18) Step left and up to cave.

  3. 18m (13) As for last pitch of "'Lamplighter'

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (several aids and rests). Aid was prgressively eliminated by Chris Dewhirst, Roger Aldrett, John Nitschke., 1966

17
23 * Shivers Trad 55m

A complex route up a great bit of rock.

Start: Start as for "Kingdom come".

  1. 25m (22) Up "Kingdom Come" until able to gain the right-leading diagonal which is followed into "Judgement Day" and so to ledge.

  2. 30m (23) Traverse left across smooth wall to twin seams, then up to ledge. Step right over bulge at a thin crack then traverse left to the arete and up into the orange corner. Exit left then up.

FA: Chris Shpeherd did second pitch with Malcolm Matheson and then the full route with Mark Moorhead., 1978

18

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2005

19
29 ** Masada Trad 28m

Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

20
31 Mighty Mouse Trad 15m

31/32. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

Start: Start R of 'Trojan'.

FA: Nathan Hoette

21
25 *** Trojan Mixed 86m, 2

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to "Dazed And Confused".

  1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

  2. 10m (-) Move left and follow the crack to the next ledge.

  3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

FA: John Moore put the route up in two stages. Pitch 1 :. Pitch 2 & 3 : with Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, 1966

22
22 Eastern Front Trad 30m

A girdle of the south face with old pegs and crumbly rock.

Start: Start at the second belay of 'Trojan'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Bob Killip, 1982

23
29 ** Muchada Trad 25m

The direct finish to 'Masada'. Instead of branching out left at the top of the groove, continue straight up through another boulder problem (as if the original crux wasn't enough!)

FA: Nick White, 2000