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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 R * Mental Debris Trad 60m

Committing first pitch and intimidating finale. The first pitch was retro-bolted at one point but the bolt(s) have now been removed.

Start on top of the great flake that leans against the south corner of the Pharos.

  1. 20m (21R) From top of giant flake go boldly left to bald arete and up this to ledge.

  2. 10m (22) Face and tiny corner 1 metre right of pitch 2 of "Trojan".

  3. 15m (24R) Step right and climb serious, closed, pocketed seam 2 metres left of arete then continue up face.

FA: Pitch 1 : Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd. Full climb : Moorhead, Roddy McKenzie, 1980

2
23 * Arms Race Mixed 30m, 1

A baffling crux combined with gut-wrenching exposure.

Start: This starts from the top of the second pitch of "trojan".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Paul Daniels, 1982

3
20 R * Dazed and Confused Trad 20m

A good stylish pitch. The initial moves are committing and require lots of small wires.

combining this with the upper pitches of "Trojan" makes for a very good grade 21 climb.

Start: Start at the top of the huge flake.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

4
20 R No Room for the Weak Trad 20m

Move right and directly up wall past some very loose flakes, finishing up the fine corner-ramp to ledge.

Start: Start as for Dazed And Confused

FA: Glenn Tempest, Paul Daniels, 1982

5
22 R Nuclear Free Trad 65m

Useless.

  1. 25m (19) Up dazed And Confused for 4 metres. Traverse 6 metres right to large precarious flake and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (20) Up short crack to make hard move to ramp and follow this, heading up right.

  3. 20m (-) Up, step left to shallow corner and follow it.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

6
29 * RSI Trad 30m

The finger shredding line starting just left of the start to 'Mind Arthritis', then taking the very bouldery wall above it.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 2000

7
27 *** Mind Arthritis Mixed 35m, 5

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the 'South Face'. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

8
24 ** Delirium Tremens Trad 30m

Technically 23 but a runout above the roof has led to the grade being inflated. A great outing on the 'South Face', starting off the ledge of the finish to "Dazed and Confused".

Worth noting that this was established onsight by the first ascentionist.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1979

9
27 * Senile Dementia Trad 35m

Starts as for 'Delirium Tremens' but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

10

This is better but it's really a climb in its own right.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Nuclear Free', on the traverse ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Simon Purnell, 1979

11
18 Gunk In The Pimms Trad 30m

Quite good climbing to gain the prominent hanging corner on the lower south-east face (the next face up the hill from the "Punks wall"). Double ropes help.

Start: Start on a small ledge below the middle of the face.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 2000