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Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Kevin Lindorff

  • First Ascent: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth (aid), 6 Jul 1969


Located in Death Row Pinnacle approx:
Lat/Long: -36.754017,141.841984

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
23 OZ Rock
23 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
23 *** ACA Route Register
23 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
23 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 89%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained hard super fun nice good amazing great classic awesome scary intimidating fall committing feet rest technical layback flake face easy undercling cruisy traverse lip

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Check out what is happening on Birdman of Alcatraz (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.