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Description:© (willmonks)

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Soft at the grade once you have the crux figured, and almost certainly a bit easier for the taller types

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 or #7 WC rock) for the top which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-alteringly way. A couple of RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Lincoln Shepherd, Dec 1983


Located in Uncle Charlie approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753652,141.841585

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
**Andrew Connolly
25 ** ** ACA Route Register
25 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
25 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 74%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno crux desperate tough pumped tired powerful hard super fun cool nice perfect good sweet great wicked tricky feet rest reachy epic technical short undercling traverse

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