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Description

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

© (willmonks)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

Dec 1983

First Ascent: Lincoln Shepherd, Dec 1983

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75365, 141.84158

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 Community registered grade
Andrew Connolly
25 ** ACA Route Register
25 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 74% from 65 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Red point
Pink point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

dyno crux desperate tough pumped tired powerful hard super fun cool nice perfect good sweet great wicked tricky feet rest reachy epic technical short undercling traverse crack

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Spasm in a Chasm (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.