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Description:© (kieranl)

A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated.

Start: Start below the huge cleft.

  1. 42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.

  2. 24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.

  3. 24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.

  4. 15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.

Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1 : Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., Aug 1967

  • First Ascent: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood some aids & variant finish 13., 14 Jul 1974

  • First Ascent: roof finish : Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 18 Apr 1976

  • First Ascent: Baxter & Stone removed the aids in., 1978


Located in Front Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753485,141.841277

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 R * ACA Route Register
20 Chris Ferre

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux fantastic pleasant good great epic roof

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