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Description

Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

  1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

  2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

  3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

  4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

© (kieranl)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

17 Nov 2063

First Ascent: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 17 Nov 2063

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75349, 141.84128

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

8 Community registered grade
8 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 ** ACA Route Register

Seasonality

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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67% from 157 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Red point
Pink point

Comment keywords

challenging crux difficult fun cool nice fabulous good sweet amazing great lovely wicked classic awesome magic pleasant super ripper scary fall feet rest epic dodgy hands short easy vertical lip

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