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Description:© (kieranl)

Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

  1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

  2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

  3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

  4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 17 Nov 1963


Located in Front Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753485,141.841277

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

8 Community registered grade
8 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 ** ACA Route Register
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux difficult fun cool nice fabulous good sweet amazing great lovely wicked classic awesome magic pleasant super ripper scary fall feet rest epic dodgy hands short easy vertical lip

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