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Description:© (daaave)

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: 1965

Location:  

Located in The Pharos approx:
Long/Lat: 141.841532,-36.753710

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14*** *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
14 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
14 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux sandbag difficult desperate hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great classic superb awesome super ripper perfect brilliant exciting intimidating horrifying tricky horrendous committing scary fall exposed chimney rest interesting awkward epic crazy roof technical face bad crack feet shady weird easy dihedral mantle dry traverse

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