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Description

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

© (daaave)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

Sep 2065

First Ascent: Sep 2065

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75371, 141.84153

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

14 Community registered grade
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 *** ACA Route Register
14*** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
14 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81% from 381 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Red point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

crux desperate tough challenging strenuous sandbag difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic superb awesome super beautiful ripper perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable intimidating horrifying unprotected tricky terrifying horrendous committing scary fall exposed chimney rest interesting awkward epic crazy roof technical face bad offwidth crack steep feet shady thrutchy weird easy dihedral mantle dry traverse

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Activity

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