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Description:© (boardlord)

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove right of the start to 'Lamplighter' past 3 bolts. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at 'Arapiles'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Law, 1983


Located in The Pharos approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753710,141.841532

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

28 Community registered grade
27 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
28 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
28 *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 88%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

powerful tough hard brilliant great fun awesome fingers epic

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