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Description:© (kieranl)

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to "Dazed And Confused".

  1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

  2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

  3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Moore put the route up in two stages. Pitch 1 :. Pitch 2, 3 : with Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, Aug 1966


Located in The Pharos approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753710,141.841532

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
25 RockGUIDE: Victoria
25 *** ACA Route Register
25 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 87%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained hard fantastic good great wicked classic nice awesome fall ground fall steep slippery feet epic hands short face undercling traverse crack

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