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Description:© (boardlord)

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the 'South Face'. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Shepherd, Mar 1985


Located in South Face approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753925,141.841213

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 Community registered grade
26 RockGUIDE: Victoria
27 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
27 *** ACA Route Register
27 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 89%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped tired crux hard fantastic good wicked exciting classic easy sharp epic dodgy crimpy

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