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Description

The wall high up at the top of Tiger Wall, R of Bluff Major.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Tiger Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Via Flinders Lane.

Descent notes

Downclimb the wall opposite Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'. This is directly above the rap anchor down Tiger Wall.

P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R.

P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete,

FA: Keith Lockwood, Athol Fraser, Doug Palmen - 1978-04-08 & Doug Palmen, 1978

Start as for BT.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1994-02-00

P1 (25m, -) Up BT for 22m then move 3m R to hanging belay.

P2 (25m, 21) Up to roof and scarily over it (you're 3m L of 'Time Out' at this point). Committing!

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

2 bolts

Walk-off

Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'.

Start 3m R of 'Seneca'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09

P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse.

P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up.

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

Topo is vague at the top - pls fix if you know where it finishes.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Felicity Rousseaux, 1993

Activity

Check out what is happening in Seneca Wall.