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Description

The wall high up at the top of Tiger Wall, R of Bluff Major.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Via Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes

Downclimb the wall opposite Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Bong Tree Trad 55m

When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Athol Fraser, Doug Palmen - 1978-04-08

P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R.

P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete,

2

Start as for BT.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1994-02-00

P1 (25m, -) Up BT for 22m then move 3m R to hanging belay.

P2 (25m, 21) Up to roof and scarily over it (you're 3m L of 'Time Out' at this point). Committing!

3
18 Time Out Trad 50m

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

4
13 R Seneca Trad 77m

Has a lot of loose blocks.

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

5
17 Shock Treatment Trad 50m

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

6
11 The Lost Chord Trad 30m

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt), Felicity Rousseaux, 1993

7
20 Native Title Trad 50m

2 bolts

Walk-off

Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'.

Start 3m R of 'Seneca'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09

P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse.

P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up.