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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kieran Loughran Will Monks Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow

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Table of contents

1. Seneca Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The wall high up at the top of Tiger Wall, R of Bluff Major.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Via Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb the wall opposite Missing Link.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Bong Tree

When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Athol Fraser, Doug Palmen - 1978-04-08

P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R.

P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete,

15
Trad 55m
2 One Hundred Percent Mabo

Start as for BT.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1994-02-00

P1 (25m, -) Up BT for 22m then move 3m R to hanging belay.

P2 (25m, 21) Up to roof and scarily over it (you're 3m L of 'Time Out' at this point). Committing!

21 R
Trad 50m
3 Time Out

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

18
Trad 50m
4 Seneca

Has a lot of loose blocks.

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

13 R
Trad 77m
5 Shock Treatment

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

17
Trad 50m
6 The Lost Chord

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt), Felicity Rousseaux, 1993

11
Trad 30m
7 Native Title

2 bolts

Walk-off

Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'.

Start 3m R of 'Seneca'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09

P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse.

P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up.

20
Trad 50m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 The Lost Chord Trad 30m
13 Seneca Trad 77m
15 Bong Tree Trad 55m
17 Shock Treatment Trad 50m
18 Time Out Trad 50m
20 Native Title Trad 50m
21 One Hundred Percent Mabo Trad 50m