Under Flinders Lane Wall All Trad climbing71 routes in sector
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
5 minute walk from the campground.
Walk L along Flinders Lane. Go down into Ali Baba's cave then down and up through a tunnel that brings you out at the top of Ali's. Downclimb or rap down Ali's.
Alternatively take the rap route down Ab Fab. 3x30m abseils (or only 1x30 and 1x55m if you have two 60m ropes). Be aware of people climbing below, they have precedence. The bolts are just over the edge on a clear area of Flinders Lane immediately below Bong Tree on Seneca Wall. The bolts are not visible until you poke your head over the edge (if you are contemplating a scary approach through scrub down onto a slab you are looking at the wrong anchors), . Place a cam to protect the step down.
There are currently additional old anchors on the Ab Fab descent catering for parties with a single 50m rope but don't rely on them being there.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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