Under Flinders Lane Wall All trad climbing61 routes in sector
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The section of the wall underneath Flinders Lane. (ie The L end of Tiger Wall).
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
5 minute walk from the campground.
Walk L along Flinders Lane. Go down into Ali Baba's cave then down and up through a tunnel that brings you out at the top of Ali's. Downclimb or rap down Ali's.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
This fantastic route should be far more popular now that rap anchors have been added to eliminate the crappy third pitch and long walk off. If you like your ankles unbroken and just want to do the awesome second pitch, you can skip the bold start by doing any of the pitches on either side.
30m (22) The start is the serious bit. Boldly up the unprotected seam to join the crack of 'Marbuck', and continue up this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. You can rap off from here (30m).
15m (24) An awesome pitch. Up the vague corner L of the big roof on 'Marbuck' pitch 2, then join a crack which doglegs steeply up R to rejoin the original. Finish at a rap station (20m to first belay, or 50m to the ground).
45m (15) Don't do this crappy loose exit pitch (but if you must: finish as for Kaiser).
FA: Kim Carrigan, Simon Parsons (Chris Peisker had previously done the independent bit at the start around), 1977
A very very big roof, which will hopefully see more action since the addition of a rap anchor which eliminates the manky 3rd pitch and long descent.
Start: About 10m R of TGTBaTU is the next major crackline up to and through the roofs. It fizzles down to a seam near the ground: start 2m R of this seam.
33m (23) Bouldery past a piton to the low roof, then move L into the main crack line. Up this to a ledge, with rap anchor (30m to ground).
15m (24) Power out the huge overhang past rubbish pitons and fixed wires. Continue up the icky wide crack above, to the next rap anchor (20m to the first belay or 50m to ground).
45m (15) A crappy loose exit pitch, as for 'Kaiser'.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor (aided), 1968
The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.
Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.
38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.
15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.
30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.
25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1966
The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4.
Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong, 1978
Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.
30m (18) Up Kaiser's crack and follow it straight up (i.e. don't veer up slightly left and then traverse back right).
16m (19) Go up to the roof and pull through it just to the L of the two prominent noses on 'Kaiser' p2.
50m (22) Follow a weakness which leads up R from the belay, then finish easily. Originally said to be 25m but it's a full 50m to Flinder's Lane.
FA: p2 Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong, 1978
FA: p3 Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, 1981
FA: p1 Louise Shepherd, Julia Butler, 1989
An eye catching and intimidating route. Quite a committing lead, but with good gear available if you have the skill.
Start: Start 2m R of K.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Little, Eddy Ozols, 1978
Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up past a BR (take a bracket) and through the little roof.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day, Nick Neagle, 1991
Long arms help. Thin crack to a fixed wire (if its there), L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof.
Start: Start 6m R of NF.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984
Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it.
Start: Start 2m R of VGU.
FA: Eddy Ozols, Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1980
Up the shallow L facing corner for 10m until sanity prevails and you rejoin the original.
Start: Start just L of R.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1977
A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.
Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).
35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.
15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.
23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.
23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.
FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage, Ann Pauligk, 1966
Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.
15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.
55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.
FA: Pitch 2 RHV Glenn Tempest, John Chapman, 1976
FA: p3 RHV (FRA) Will Monks, Nicola Cotton, 1999
Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off.
Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2004
A variant start to 'Harrier'.from the left.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, Roddy Mackenzie, 1983
The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.
Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.
24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.
18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.
FA: Kevin Lindorff later added the roof.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (aided the start, veered around the roof), 1973
A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade!
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983
A classic Arapiles baby bum face route. Originally given 24 but since upgraded (rightly so) in line with Vanja's upgrade. Quite sustained and powerful.
FA: Ingvar Lidman
This good climb up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done as a single long pitch. Most parties skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish' however some parties have found the second pitch to be the crux - possibly depends on where the initial overhang on that pitch is climbed.
55m (16) Climb arete left of 'Kestrel'.
42m (13) Traverse right above Kestrel's corner, up through the overhang then up to Flinders Lane over final overhangs.
FA: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood, Nick Andronis, 1975
A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade) requires you to belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge. If you only have a single rope, it's an easy ramble to Flinders Lane.
FA: Doug Hatt, Ian Guild, 1964
Step L and up mossy wall to overhang. Step R and up arete. Step L and up bulge (crux). Up L facing corner, then step R and up to finish.
Start: Start at Kestrel's first belay.
FA: Peter Holmes, Meg Holmes, 1996
Good second pitch up left edge of headwall between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo'. Rack from #2RP to #4 Camalot. There are some enormous blocks that have to be stepped on at the start of the second pitch. They seem to be wedged but best to keep the ground below clear of people. Start as for 'Yo Yo'.
35m (13) Up the first pitch of 'Yo Yo' but move past the belay ledge and traverse left under the first overlap to a small stance.
30m (20) Easily left to obvious weakness in overlap and over this. Left and up to gain hanging, left-facing corner on left side of headwall. Up corner to a hard move past BR to right arete. Up arete and over small roof (BR) and continue on water-washed rock to ledge. To get off either continue up third pitch of 'Skylark' which is directly above, or traverse right to rap on 'Nakkablitz'
FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little, 2013
Good top pitch. Best to ignore first pitch and start up 'Yo Yo' and then traverse left to belay.
Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Yo Yo'
25m (18) Up face, contrived in places until forced into 'Yo Yo' about 4 metres below the overlap. Up to overlap and traverse left to belay
25m (22) Climb overlap and move up and right to top right corner of overlaps. Step right, up wall 2 metres ('Ducks On The Pond' is very close on right) and traverse left to ledge. Off right end of ledge with dodgy gear (crux) and up seam.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, 1988
The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.
25m (13) Climb the corner to a block on the right just below the overlap.
13m (16) Short, technical layback flake then move right into chimney and up to stance. The wide crack leading directly into the chimney goes at the same grade but is not as good.
13m (15) Take the right-hand of the twin grey corners (The corner on left is 18).
40m (13) Go up 7 metres, left to skirt overhang and follow line up slightly right to Flinders Lane.
FA: Mike Stone, Ian Speedie, 1965
This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.
30m (-) From top of third pitch climb over bulge and continue up, veering slightly right.
24m (-) Through a break in overhangs then follow an obvious crack system up right.
40m (15) Follow line over 2 overhangs to below a prominent obstruction.
12m (18) The large overhang
14m (-) Onwards
FA: Daryl Carr, Chris Baxter, 1968
Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'.
Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.
10m (-) Easily up the first pitch of 'Falcon'.
45m (23) Climb the diagonals on 'Falcon' then continue up the steep wall above past a couple of bolts (second is a bit offline) to rap station.
FA: Mike Law, Mark Colyvan, 1983
A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area.
Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.
10m (10) Climb up to the terrace vis the easiest route you can find. A good, well-protected grade 19 alternate pitch is the initial 7 metre crack of "They Shoot Pigeons Don't They" and then move left to the belay; just be wary of the big blocks on the ledge.
20m (18) Climb up the corner then step into the right hand line (left-hand line may be slightly easier but protection is more difficult). A few tricky moves lead to some very enjoyable climbing. Traverse up and right to the exit and rap-anchor.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norman Booth, 1973
A good, direct line up the front of the central buttress but poor protection has seen it languish in obscurity. It used to have a second pitch, following 'Falcon' to the top of the buttress but you wouldn't bother.
Start: Start at seam up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.
FA: Peter Martin, Louise Shepherd, 1988
The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1979
Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.
48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.
25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.
20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).
FA: Bruce Hocking, Ian Speedie, 19th Dec
24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.
25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.
30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.
20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.
FA: Steve & Bob Craddock, Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963
A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.
20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy, Bob Craddock, 1964
Quite pleasant climbing.
Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.
12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.
FA: Unknown, 2000
30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.
FA: John McLean, Richard Schmidt.., 1966
Two good pitches. The easy top of pitch one can be a bit dirty.
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'The Eighth Direct'.
25m (20) Thin cracks up wall to bulge. Over bulge and slab to belay.
15m (21) Thin face and step in overhang. Steeply up front of buttress. Easy traverse left to 'Nakablitz' rap-anchor.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992
Nice first pitch and second is just too contrived.
FA: Recorded: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992
15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney.
45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall.
48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.
32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.
FA: Steve Hanson, Andrew Topolcsanyi (alt), 1994