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Description

The section of the wall underneath Flinders Lane. (ie The L end of Tiger Wall).

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

5 minute walk from the campground.

Descent Notes

Walk L along Flinders Lane. Go down into Ali Baba's cave then down and up through a tunnel that brings you out at the top of Ali's. Downclimb or rap down Ali's.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
2
11 Eagle Cleft Trad 120m

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

  1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

  2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

  3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

  4. ??m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Speedie, 14th Nov

3
11 Hawk Trad 130m

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

  1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

  2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

  3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

  4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Bennett, Greg Martin (alt), 31st Oct

4

Pitch 4 Variant: At the belay do not move right into the chimney. Instead step left for about 2-3m then follow an obvious line trending slightly left for a full 50m pitch. This is an obvious line that is quite prominent as a crack line on the cover of Louise Shepherd's guide book to 'Arapiles'

FA: Mark Witham, Deb Churches, 2000

5
14 Swansong Trad 120m

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

  1. 30m (-) As for EC.

  2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

  3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

  4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

  5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, 1974

6
15 Twilight Zone Trad 300m

A monster girdle. Why would you bother.

Start: Start as for EC.

FA: Chris Baxter, Daryl Carr, 1968

7
23 * Fall Out Trad 97m

Double ropes are mandatory as pitch 1 takes a devious wandering line through some daunting territory. Also note that pitch 1 can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor just right of the first belay.

Start: Start just R of 'Eagle Cleft', at the top of the easy initial slabs.

  1. 25m (23) Through the guano stained roof, L and up slabby corner to bulge, then R into a L-leaning corner. Up this then short slab to ledge.

  2. 10m (22) The face just L of an obvious nose, then small corner to a stance.

  3. 40m (-) Up L to arete and big ledge.

  4. 22m (-) The nice L-leading corner on the R wall of 'Eagle Cleft'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (although p4 was previously done by Mike Law, Glenn Tempest), 1978

8
24 * Fall Out Direct Trad 25m

A straighter version of pitch 1 but you'll probably still want double ropes.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Robin Miller, 1983

9
24 ** Let's Face It Trad 100m

Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

  1. 25m (23) Through the gauno roof as for 'Fall Out', then slime your way R into the next corner. R around roof then up.

  2. 30m (24) Move L to gain a R-leaning flake with difficulty. Step L to next flake and up to stance on arete.

  3. 20m (-) Easily up to big ledge.

  4. 20m (21) Straight up the arete, R of 'Fall Out' p4.

FA: p4: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd

FA: p2: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young

FA: p1: Chris Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

10

Another worthless traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1977

11
24 Barnstormer Trad 60m

Start: Start between LFI and FoaHTR.

  1. 30m (24) The slab to the crack through the big roof. Out this then the bulge above. Move L to the LFI rap anchor.

  2. 40m (-) This pitch is just a ramble up to Flinders Lane, so don't bother and just rap off. For the record you can also traverse L into 'Eagle Cleft' and reverse it.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

12

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Peter Watson, 1977

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

13

A better way to get to the crux at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start 2m L of 'The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly'. Up the easy slab then a thin crack (this bit goes at 18). Join the original first pitch for it's final cruxy corner

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

14

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

  1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

  2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

  3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Cohn, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

15

This looks to be the original finish to the route and not a FA. Go up R from the second belay to a bird eyrie, then steeply through a niche to reach the face of a narrow buttress.

Start: Start at the 2nd belay of 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly'

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

16
26 Into the Black Trad 30m

The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m.

Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.

  1. 20m (15) Climb up TGTBaTU then belay while you're still below the roof on the right.

  2. 30m (26) Move R under roof, then crank out it past a piton and sling, which by now will be rubbish if they're even there at all. Now head R up a flake above and through the next roof. Continue up the wall above (or, more conveniently, move L to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Roddy McKenzie, 1980

17
24 ** Out of the Blue Trad 70m

Start: Start 8m L of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 20m (18) The thin crack, then the V crack, to ledge.

  2. 20m (24) Up to roof and cruise out it to a tough move at the lip.

  3. 15m (23) L then up crack and wall to roof. Blast out the impossible looking corner/roof on your L, using spaced pockets. It looks like you'd be very close to the final steep section of 'Into the Black' here. Once over the roof it's probably best to try to move left to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU. Otherwise doddle another 40m to Flinders Lane.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead (alt), 1980

18
24 R ** Marbuck Variant Trad 70m

This fantastic route should be far more popular now that rap anchors have been added to eliminate the crappy third pitch and long walk off. If you like your ankles unbroken and just want to do the awesome second pitch, you can skip the bold start by doing any of the pitches on either side.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Marbuck', immediately below the main line followed by 'Marbuck' pitch 1.

  1. 30m (22) The start is the serious bit. Boldly up the unprotected seam to join the crack of 'Marbuck', and continue up this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. You can rap off from here (30m).

  2. 15m (24) An awesome pitch. Up the vague corner L of the big roof on 'Marbuck' pitch 2, then join a crack which doglegs steeply up R to rejoin the original. Finish at a rap station (20m to first belay, or 50m to the ground).

  3. 45m (15) Don't do this crappy loose exit pitch (but if you must: finish as for Kaiser).

FA: Kim Carrigan, Simon Parsons (Chris Peisker had previously done the independent bit at the start around), 1977

19
24 * Marbuck Trad 73m

A very very big roof, which will hopefully see more action since the addition of a rap anchor which eliminates the manky 3rd pitch and long descent.

Start: About 10m R of TGTBaTU is the next major crackline up to and through the roofs. It fizzles down to a seam near the ground: start 2m R of this seam.

  1. 33m (23) Bouldery past a piton to the low roof, then move L into the main crack line. Up this to a ledge, with rap anchor (30m to ground).

  2. 15m (24) Power out the huge overhang past rubbish pitons and fixed wires. Continue up the icky wide crack above, to the next rap anchor (20m to the first belay or 50m to ground).

  3. 45m (15) A crappy loose exit pitch, as for 'Kaiser'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor (aided), 1968

20
23 Kick Start Trad 30m

Thin crack, move R under roof, then pull through roof. Up wall to ledges and traverse R along these to the 'No Future' rap anchor.

Start: Start 1.5m R of' 'Marbuck'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

21
15 * Kaiser Trad 110m

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

  4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1966

22
18 Kaiser LHF Trad 25m

The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4.

Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong, 1978

23

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

25

Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.

  1. 30m (18) Up Kaiser's crack and follow it straight up (i.e. don't veer up slightly left and then traverse back right).

  2. 16m (19) Go up to the roof and pull through it just to the L of the two prominent noses on 'Kaiser' p2.

  3. 50m (22) Follow a weakness which leads up R from the belay, then finish easily. Originally said to be 25m but it's a full 50m to Flinder's Lane.

FA: p2 Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong, 1978

FA: p3 Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, 1981

FA: p1 Louise Shepherd, Julia Butler, 1989

26
21 ** No Future Trad 30m

An eye catching and intimidating route. Quite a committing lead, but with good gear available if you have the skill.

Start: Start 2m R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Little, Eddy Ozols, 1978

27
22 * No Future Direct Mixed 30m, 1

Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up past a BR (take a bracket) and through the little roof.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day, Nick Neagle, 1991

28

Long arms help. Thin crack to a fixed wire (if its there), L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof.

Start: Start 6m R of NF.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

29
22 * Eat More Meat Trad 30m

Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it.

Start: Start 2m R of VGU.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1980

30

Up the shallow L facing corner for 10m until sanity prevails and you rejoin the original.

Start: Start just L of R.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1977

31
15 *** Resignation Trad 96m

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

  1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

  2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

  3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

  4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage, Ann Pauligk, 1966

32
15 Resignation RHV Trad 70m

Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.

  1. 15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.

  2. 55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.

FA: Pitch 2 RHV Glenn Tempest, John Chapman, 1976

FA: p3 RHV (FRA) Will Monks, Nicola Cotton, 1999

33
23 Tough Titties Mixed 20m, 3

Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off.

Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2004

34

A variant start to 'Harrier'.from the left.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, Roddy Mackenzie, 1983

35
20 Harrier Trad 100m

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

  1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

  2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

  3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

FA: Kevin Lindorff later added the roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (aided the start, veered around the roof), 1973

36

Start 3 metre right of 'Harrier'. Head diagonally left up smooth orange wall to join 'Harrier' at the bulge.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

37
26 R * Is Vanya a Dog? Mixed 18m, 1

A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade!

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

FFA: 1983

38
25 * Bienerstisch Mixed 20m, 2

A classic Arapiles baby bum face route. Originally given 24 but since upgraded (rightly so) in line with Vanja's upgrade. Quite sustained and powerful.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

FFA: 2004

39

Serious route based on the streak that 'Bienerstisch' takes direct. Probably never to be repeated now that 'Bienerstisch' exists.

FA: Doug Fife, Phil Steane, 1982

40
16 ** Skylark Trad 97m

This good climb up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done as a single long pitch. Most parties skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish' however some parties have found the second pitch to be the crux - possibly depends on where the initial overhang on that pitch is climbed.

  1. 55m (16) Climb arete left of 'Kestrel'.

  2. 42m (13) Traverse right above Kestrel's corner, up through the overhang then up to Flinders Lane over final overhangs.

FA: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood, Nick Andronis, 1975

41

straight above the Kestrel rap station

42
13 ** Kestrel Trad 50m

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade) requires you to belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge. If you only have a single rope, it's an easy ramble to Flinders Lane.

FA: Doug Hatt, Ian Guild, 1964

43

Step L and up mossy wall to overhang. Step R and up arete. Step L and up bulge (crux). Up L facing corner, then step R and up to finish.

Start: Start at Kestrel's first belay.

FA: Peter Holmes, Meg Holmes, 1996

44
19 Velvet Green Trad 55m

Wandering and mossy.

  1. 35m (19) Middle of buttress between Kesrel and 'Yo Yo' with hard move left low down the weakness to small ledge at overlap.

  2. 20m (17) Pull through overlaps and trend right into 'Yo Yo'

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980

45
20 * Surfacing Mixed 65m, 2

Good second pitch up left edge of headwall between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo'. Rack from #2RP to #4 Camalot. There are some enormous blocks that have to be stepped on at the start of the second pitch. They seem to be wedged but best to keep the ground below clear of people. Start as for 'Yo Yo'.

  1. 35m (13) Up the first pitch of 'Yo Yo' but move past the belay ledge and traverse left under the first overlap to a small stance.

  2. 30m (20) Easily left to obvious weakness in overlap and over this. Left and up to gain hanging, left-facing corner on left side of headwall. Up corner to a hard move past BR to right arete. Up arete and over small roof (BR) and continue on water-washed rock to ledge. To get off either continue up third pitch of 'Skylark' which is directly above, or traverse right to rap on 'Nakkablitz'

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little, 2013

46
22 R Diving Deep Trad 50m

Good top pitch. Best to ignore first pitch and start up 'Yo Yo' and then traverse left to belay.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Yo Yo'

  1. 25m (18) Up face, contrived in places until forced into 'Yo Yo' about 4 metres below the overlap. Up to overlap and traverse left to belay

  2. 25m (22) Climb overlap and move up and right to top right corner of overlaps. Step right, up wall 2 metres ('Ducks On The Pond' is very close on right) and traverse left to ledge. Off right end of ledge with dodgy gear (crux) and up seam.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, 1988

47
21 Ducks on the Pond Trad 30m

Climb the corner crack of 'Yo Yo' then continue directly up (rather than traversing R to the guano). Follow incipient crack directly up lichenous country to belay on ledge 2-3m L of Yo Yo's 3rd belay.

Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Yo Yo'.

FA: Tim Day, Phil Robertson, 1997

48
16 ** Yo Yo Trad 90m

The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.

  1. 25m (13) Climb the corner to a block on the right just below the overlap.

  2. 13m (16) Short, technical layback flake then move right into chimney and up to stance. The wide crack leading directly into the chimney goes at the same grade but is not as good.

  3. 13m (15) Take the right-hand of the twin grey corners (The corner on left is 18).

  4. 40m (13) Go up 7 metres, left to skirt overhang and follow line up slightly right to Flinders Lane.

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Speedie, 1965

49
18 * Yo Yo Variant Finish Trad 120m

This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.

  1. 30m (-) From top of third pitch climb over bulge and continue up, veering slightly right.

  2. 24m (-) Through a break in overhangs then follow an obvious crack system up right.

  3. 40m (15) Follow line over 2 overhangs to below a prominent obstruction.

  4. 12m (18) The large overhang

  5. 14m (-) Onwards

FA: Daryl Carr, Chris Baxter, 1968

50
23 Nakablitz Mixed 57m, 2

Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'.

Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.

  1. 10m (-) Easily up the first pitch of 'Falcon'.

  2. 45m (23) Climb the diagonals on 'Falcon' then continue up the steep wall above past a couple of bolts (second is a bit offline) to rap station.

FA: Mike Law, Mark Colyvan, 1983

51
18 * Falcon Trad 57m

A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area.

Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.

  1. 10m (10) Climb up to the terrace vis the easiest route you can find. A good, well-protected grade 19 alternate pitch is the initial 7 metre crack of "They Shoot Pigeons Don't They" and then move left to the belay; just be wary of the big blocks on the ledge.

  2. 20m (18) Climb up the corner then step into the right hand line (left-hand line may be slightly easier but protection is more difficult). A few tricky moves lead to some very enjoyable climbing. Traverse up and right to the exit and rap-anchor.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norman Booth, 1973

52

A good, direct line up the front of the central buttress but poor protection has seen it languish in obscurity. It used to have a second pitch, following 'Falcon' to the top of the buttress but you wouldn't bother.

Start: Start at seam up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.

FA: Peter Martin, Louise Shepherd, 1988

53
23 Problem Child Trad 50m

The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1979

54
11 ** Phoenix Trad 98m

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

  1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

  2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

FA: Bruce Hocking, Ian Speedie, 19th Dec

55
11 ** The Eighth Trad 110m
  1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

  2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

  3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

  4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Steve & Bob Craddock, Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963

56

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Bob Craddock, 1964

57
19 Straight Eight Trad 42m

Quite pleasant climbing.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.

  1. 12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.

  2. 30m (16) Move left and finish up the arete left of Phoenix (the original finish of Problem Child).

FA: Unknown, 2000

58
11 * The Eighth Direct Trad 96m
  1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

  2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

FA: John McLean, Richard Schmidt.., 1966

59

Two good pitches. The easy top of pitch one can be a bit dirty.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'The Eighth Direct'.

  1. 25m (20) Thin cracks up wall to bulge. Over bulge and slab to belay.

  2. 15m (21) Thin face and step in overhang. Steeply up front of buttress. Easy traverse left to 'Nakablitz' rap-anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

60
16 Monkey's Paw Trad 40m

Nice first pitch and second is just too contrived.

  1. 25m (16) Climb orange crack 4 metres left of 'Syrinx', just right of GWDS. When it stops, step left to the next orange crack.

  2. 15m (14) Take bulge 2 metres left of "interesting move" on 'Syrinx'. Abseil down 'Nakablitz'.

FA: Recorded: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

61
15 Monkey Poo Trad 140m

Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.

  1. 15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney.

  2. 45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall.

  3. 48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.

  4. 32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.

FA: Steve Hanson, Andrew Topolcsanyi (alt), 1994