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Description

These routes are in the area near Syrinx which is the big orange corner with the balconies high above.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

10 minute walk from the campground.

Descent Notes

Walk away from the cliff to the dirt road, turn L and follow the road. Then take he Central Gully tourist track (signposted) back down.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 *** Syrinx Trad 170m

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

  1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead, this is harder and less-well protected.

  2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

  3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

  4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

  5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

  6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

  7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

FA: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone, 31st Oct

2
25 Penelope Pitstop Mixed 25m, 2

Positional Climb the wall and steep arete to the left of Boy Racer.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

3
22 ** Boy Racer Trad 30m

A fabulous route that is one of the harder 22s about.

FA: Greg Child, Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1978

4
25 * Sunday Best Trad 50m

Sustained right-hand line starting out of 'Boy Racer'. Half of this pitch was originally aided as 'Syrinx' 'Direct Finish' by Peter McKeand and Gordon Talbett on 26-12-1968 and Chris Baxter had freed the top half of the route from above the crux on 3-12-1977.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead., 1982

5

An old classic which has lost favour but is still a good long route, especially if done with the direct variants, as described. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'.

  1. 40m (13) Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. Sling the obvious chockstone at 20 metres, step wide left below it and continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line).

  2. 35m (11) Continue to avoid the main scrubby line by climbing up into the hanging, right-facing corner a couple of metres left of the line. Follow the corner until it merges back into the original line. Easy climbing to large ledge

  3. 45m (10) Up a little and step right to the short corner with the arrow pointing up. Up the corner then move right. Continue roughly diagonally right up the wall until the steep short arete that leads to the cave between the overhangs.

  4. 30m (1) Traverse off right along the ledge system until a short easy wall leads to the next ledge system from where it is safe to walk off un-roped.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, 1965

6
13 * The Lute Direct Trad 50m

This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option but, if you don't traverse off to the rap anchor, it's the best first pitch to start the original climb. This variant is written up as "The Lute" in the Mentz/Tempest Guide which people have found confusing. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 20 metres continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 40 metres, traverse 10 metres right on ledges past a couple of old pegs to rap chains, rope-drag can be a problem here.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2006

7
19 Greasy Burritos Trad 28m

A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor.

FA: David Gallagher and fan club, 1992

8
25 Fish Disco Mixed 30m, 1

The finger-shredding sickle starting two metres right of 'Greasy Burritos', veering left into that climb.

FA: David Gallagher, 1992

9
22 Headbanger Trad 120m

This good continuation for 'Broken Song' finally tackles the big overhang above the big diagonal pitch of 'Syrinx'.

  1. 40m (21) As for 'Broken Song'.

  2. 30m (16) As for pitch 3 of 'Deathwatch Beetle'.

  3. 30m (14) Up wall, veering left. Juggy groove leads to ledge out left.

  4. 18m (22) Twin cracks then through roof (big cam). Walk off to right.

FA: Esther Bollinger, Simon Mentz, 2008

10
21 * Broken Song Trad 40m

Hard moves down low and glorious rock on the headwall. Could be done in one pitch but the cruxes are at the beginning and end.

Start: Start about 8m right of 'Greasy Burritos' from a diagonal ramp.

  1. 22m (21) Step out left from the ramp and climb past FH into seam and follow it until it eases. Belay on a small stance below steepening (there is a better stance 4m lower but the anchors are poor).

  2. 13m (21) Move up and step left below the headwall. Rock up the headwall past 2FH on some of the finest stone anywhere to large ledge and rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman

11
16 Deathwatch Beetle Mixed 130m, 1

The Select guide has a version of this that has only about half of the climb in common with the original. It starts up 'The Lute' Direct to get to the abseil anchor at the top of pitch two then adds a direct start to the third pitch. The original climb wasn't all that bad and that is largely as it is described here. At least then people will know what has actually been climbed.

Start: Start about 4 metres right of 'Broken Song'.

  1. 27m (14) These first 2 pitches can be avoided by climbing 'The Lute' Direct and traversing to the 'Broken Song' anchor. Climb a faint vertical groove until it blanks out near the top. Step right and mantleshelf back left with poor protection. Up easily to a good ledge on the right.

  2. 27m (14) Straight up, following good cracks to a smooth wall. The bolt above is the grade 18 direct variant (Beetlemania). Traverse 4 metres right then up and left to ledge. Continue left to belay at rappel anchor.

  3. 35m (16) Up left-facing shallow corners to the smooth wall at 12 metres. Step right then up the delicate, bolt-protected wall. Move back left and climb the steep, juggy weakness to easier ground and a ledge beside The Belvedere. The original start to this pitch was well to the right, followed a ramp then made a long traverse back left to the steep, juggy weakness.

  4. 45m (10) Polished juggy wall just left of The Belvedere to join 'Syrinx' at the overhang. Scramble easily off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman (alt). Pitch 3 direct variant : Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest., 1981

12
18 Beetlemania Mixed 40m, 1

This link-up provides some good slabby moves on excellent rock. It starts up 'Shtarde' and then follows up the direct variant of the original 'Deathwatch Beetle'. Continuing up 'Deathwatch Beetle' from the 'Broken Song' anchor could be a good option.

Start: Start at a steepening slabby seam about 10 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There's a faint initial S chipped in the rock on the left side of the seam. There's a vegetated seam 2 metres further right and then the brushed streak of Shaggy's Route another 2 metres to the right.

  1. 15m (17) Climb the clean orange seam which is nicely technical and continue up an easy blocky arete to a ledge and belay off a huge block. This is the first pitch of 'Shtarde'.

  2. 25m (18) Take the easy crack at the left side of the ledge (Deathwatch Beetle) and when it stops push on past the bolt to long, narrow ledge. Move left to abseil anchor of 'Broken Song'.

FA: Pitch 2: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, Keith Lockwood.

FA: Pitch1 : As for 1st ascent of Shtarde., 2000

13
15 Shtarde Trad 72m

Some funky moves on the first pitch but it deteriorates after that.

It starts as for 'Beetlemania' at a steepening slabby seam about 10 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There's a faint initial S chipped in the rock on the left side of the seam, a vegetated seam 2 metres further right and then the brushed streak of Shaggy's Route another 2 metres to the right.

The belay at the end of the second pitch is currently a very active beehive so this climb should be avoided until this is dealt with.

  1. 15m (17) Climb the clean orange seam which is nicely technical and continue up an easy blocky arete to a ledge and belay off a huge block.

  2. 27m (12) Obvious narrow chimney then up easily to belay near small cave.

  3. 30m (-) Straight up to big ledge right of The Belvedere. This pitch is mostly part of 'The Wobble'.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen, 1970

14
14 Shaggys Route Trad 110m

A Vegetarian Delight! Originally named "Shit Fuck, I Ate a Beef Burger!. Arhhh" (which was apparently some obscure anagram), but posthumously renamed in honour of the Mayor of the Pines.

The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up.

Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.

  1. 40m (15) Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge.

  2. 35m (13) Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top.

  3. 35m (13) Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge.

  4. -m (-) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch and finish up that. Alternatively, if, you've done 'Syrinx' before, wander off to the right.

FA: Shaun Kratzer, Derek Chadderton,

15
16 Radish Trad 150m

(Somewhat rad?) A long adventure on good rock, straight to the summit of the mount. Individual pitch grades not supplied - the overall grade is 16 but some pitches are easier.

The last pitch is in a similar vein to the forgotten final pitch of Shaggy's Route and could well have been better consigned to the same fate.

Start: Start up easy, vegetated crack about 5 metres right of Shaggy's Route. This is also the start of 'The Wobble'.

  1. 30m (13) Climb the easy crack and keep in the line (via hand crack through bulge) all the way to a good ledge on the right.

  2. 30m (16) Up wall to corner which leads to right side of prominent roof. Pass roof on right and continue past right edge of next roof. Bridge up line until a ledge appears on the left.

  3. 30m (10) Straight up line. Belay below long horizontal line of overhangs.

  4. 20m (12) Move left and up past left edge of overhangs to terrace. Up wall immediately left of trees to nice orange alcove.

  5. 40m (16) Up wall to long roofline on the left. Traverse 2.5 metres right at the roof and up past its right edge. Up easily, veer right, then up wall direct to summit block. Bridge up undercut corner on the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, varied leads, 2006

16
5 The Wobble Trad 130m

The challenge of this old route, should you choose to accept it, is working out where it goes.

Start as for 'Radish'.

  1. 36m (5) Up the easy corner and then traverse right around the buttress to the next line. Up this, or face on left to next ledge.

  2. 24m (5) Climb short corner then step left and traverse left below overhangs to belay.

  3. 15m (5) Traverse left again under bulge and up through weakness(this is probably a few metres left of the second pitch of Shaggy's Route) to a ledge level with the Eagle's Nest, a prominent nose of rock to the right. Now left and up again to the next ledge.

  4. 15m (5) Up wall to a huge ledge with buttresses rising on both sides.

  5. 30m (5) Up by the lefthand buttress, The Belvedere, and up to join 'Syrinx'. Scramble off right.

FA: Steve and Bob Craddock, 30th Dec

17
11 ** The Dribble Trad 140m

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

  1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

  2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

  3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

  4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve Mid 70s., 2000

18
17 DejaVu, I Think Trad 60m

So-so. Second pitch is OK.

Start: Scramble across to a line about 3 metres right of The Dribble's second two overhang.

  1. 25m (14) Line 3 metres right of 'The Dribble' to belay on loose blocks

  2. 30m (17) Step left from ledge and up to groove bounding left side of upper wall. Onwards to scrubby ledge. Scramble off down right to rappel.

FA: Peter Treby, Kieran Loughran, Peter Allen, 1983