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Description

The very R end of Tiger Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Sramble 40m up Pan gully (between Tiger Wall and Grotto Wall) then to a terrace on the L.

Descent Notes

40m abseil from rap station above Senior Citizens.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 The Gentle Touch Trad 45m

As usual here second pitch is the best. Start about 5 metres right of DVIT and 5 metres left of 'Senior Citizens'.

  1. 25m (15) Follow thin line up a series of discontinuous walls to ledge.

  2. 20m (21) Blocky corner then straight to roof. Hard over this then up left-leading line past final bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1983

2
19 Down on Your Knees Trad 15m

The central line on the upper wall. Start up 'Senior Citizens' or 'The Gentle Touch' and belay on good ledge to left of line.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

3
23 Working Girls Trad 15m

Good, thin climbing up blankest section of the wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

4
18 * Senior Citizens Trad 40m

A delightful second pitch and the approach isn't too bad despite appearances.

Start at a right-facing corner leading to an overhang above the terrace.

  1. 25m (15) Bridge corner up to and past overhang. Easy crack and then face climb on the right to avoid scrub. Near the top move right and up to a belay on the right.

  2. 15m (18) Step left and up groove and face crack to hard finish when crack fades. Rap anchor directly above.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1982

5
21 Take Me to Elwood Trad 40m

Hard start and good top pitch. Start 5 metres right of 'Senior Citizens' at an overhanging groove.

  1. 20m (21) Hard moves lead to easy corner. Up to belay on right.

  2. 20m (19) Climb the stepped orange corner on the right to rap anchor. Protection is difficult in places.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Dave Gairns, 1982

6

There's a gnarly old gumtree about 15 metres right of Take Me To Elwood. Climb the smooth streak.

FA: Dave Mudie, Dennis Kemp, 1987

7

Scramble right along ledge from 1st belay of 'Senior Citizens' to a big ledge with a nice gum that leans close to the cliff, and an alien inhabited hole. This wall runs left from the top of the Bat Cave - access as for that area from the Disabled Lookout.

Start: Just left of the big tree the ledge has a one metre step. There is a twisted little tree with an ancient sling around it here. Start behind tree. Wander up through next tier to find belay at callitris.

FA: Pritchard, Hoskins, Wilkins, 1994

8

Start below the hole. Up to hole stepping left at this point and up through steep stuff. Wander up to belay as for 'An Alien Cut My Rope'.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, Wilkins, 1994

9
17 Creep Show Trad 15m

This route takes a black groove at the right hand end of the ledge. Belay at ledge from where it is possible to walk off right.

FA: Pritchard, Hoskins, 1994