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Description:© (willmonks)

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

  1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

  2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

  3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

  4. ??m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 14th Nov

Location:  

Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844257,-36.756496

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 Community registered grade
* Cameron Roy
10 ACA Route Register
10 Phil Laukens
10 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
11 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 54%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux good cool nice exposed crap chimney

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