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Description:© (willmonks)

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

  4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 19 Feb 1966


Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.756496,141.844257

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
14 RockGUIDE: Victoria
15 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 * ACA Route Register
15 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 62%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped challenging tough hard good great fun enjoyable cool nice awesome scary fall exposed committing feet chimney rest epic roof short face easy bail dry traverse crack

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