- Height: 96m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 370
- Description:© (koala)
A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.
Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).
35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.
15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.
23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.
23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, 1966
Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|15||Community registered grade|
|14||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|15 **||ACA Route Register|
|15||Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
Overall quality score: 78%
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