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Description

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

  1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

  2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

  3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

  4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

© (koala)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

Apr 1966

First Ascent: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, Apr 1966

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75650, 141.84426

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15 Community registered grade
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 ** ACA Route Register
15 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78% from 268 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Red point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

stuffed pumped solid crux sustained fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely wicked classic awesome pleasant beautiful ripper brilliant exciting scary intimidating fall runout exposed committing steep slippery rest interesting awkward dodgy roof easy bad jugs traverse

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