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Description:© (koala)

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

  1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

  2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

  3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

  4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, Apr 1966


Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.756496,141.844257

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 ** ACA Route Register
15 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed pumped solid crux sustained fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely wicked classic awesome pleasant beautiful ripper brilliant exciting scary intimidating fall runout exposed committing steep slippery rest interesting awkward dodgy roof easy bad jugs traverse

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