Logbook
Help
1 55m
2 30m

Description

This good climb starting up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done with a long first pitch. A lot of parties take advantage of the rap anchor and skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish'. However the second pitch has some good climbing, especially on the crux overhang low down. Noddy graded the top section 12 back in the day but is now unable to identify where it went. They may have gone much further right or maybe just a sandbag. Now has a lower-off on top pitch to avoid bushes and loose rock on exit - 60m rope mandatory.

  1. 55m (16) Climb arete left of 'Kestrel' until it is more logical to continue up the seam and face left of the arete to the chain belay of Kestrel.

  2. 30m (16) Traverse right from the belay, above Kestrel's corner, and up a little to ledge, up crack in the steep wall. Then take the right-hand option up to the final overhangs. Climb these, moving right and up to anchor. 30m lower off to anchor for Diving Deep / Surfacing. 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil to ground from there.

© (willmonks)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

23 Jun 1975

First Ascent: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood & Nick Andronis, 23 Jun 1975

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75650, 141.84426

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

16 Community registered grade
16 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
16 * ACA Route Register

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 66% from 72 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Hang dog

Comment keywords

solid crux sustained pleasant fun nice perfect good brilliant great lovely enjoyable superb awesome face easy rest slabby

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity

Check out what is happening on Skylark (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.