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A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade) requires you to belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge. If you only have a single rope, it's an easy ramble to Flinders Lane.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Doug Hatt & Ian Guild, 1964


Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844257,-36.756496

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

12 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
12 ** ** ACA Route Register
13 Principal
13 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained tough hard ripper fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great lovely enjoyable awesome fall tricky exposed chossy interesting awkward arete bridging crack

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