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Description:

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

  1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead, this is harder and less-well protected.

  2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

  3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

  4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

  5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

  6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

  7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone, 31 Oct 1964

Location:  

Located in Tiger Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844257,-36.756496

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

10 Principal
10 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
10 *** *** ACA Route Register
10 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 73%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid tired crux sandbag hard fun nice fantastic good great lovely classic awesome incredible super beautiful ripper perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable fall tricky exposed dangerous chimney rest interesting epic dodgy roof short crap jugs steep feet sunny arete shady thrutchy easy cruisy traverse

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