Forum
Logbook
Help

Description

This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option but, if you don't traverse off to the rap anchor, it's the best first pitch to start the original climb. This variant is written up as "The Lute" in the Mentz/Tempest Guide which people have found confusing. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 20 metres continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 40 metres, traverse to ledge and rap anchor. Many people go too high into crud, don't miss the start of the traverse.

Note: be careful of big boulder ready to come off at the end of the vertical part of the climb, just as you start veering right.

© (kieranl)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

May 2006

First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, May 2006

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75650, 141.84426

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

13 Community registered grade
13* Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
13 * ACA Route Register

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 51% from 14 ratings

Tick types

Onsight

Comment keywords

pleasant great enjoyable nice traverse

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity

Check out what is happening on The Lute Direct (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.