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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Scramble up from the bottom of Cecilia Wall.

Or approach via Dreadnought Gully (Central Gully Right), coming up past Starless Buttress and the Copyright Area.

Descent Notes

Rap station above Copyright. Or scramble down to the R.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Piece of Shit Trad 35m

Traverse L past F and up the 'Intransience' face (see the 'Cecilia Wall' area).

Start: Start as for F.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1985

2
19 Frontispiece Trad 30m

Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the 'Intransience' face.

Start: Start at the far L end of 'Skyline Walls'.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1979

3
19 R Trademark Trad 20m

The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

Start: Start just R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

4
23 Thin Air Trad 20m

Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.

Start: Start 1m R of T.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Paul Tattersall, 1982

5
26 * Fists of Fury Trad 20m

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of 'Exodus' II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

6
26 ** Exodus lI Mixed 20m, 1

Well chalked line (marked in yellow) left of obvious left-trending crack (Copyright). Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

7
27 ** Exodus 2.5 Sport 20m, 4

At the top of the crux of 'Exodus' II, break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

FA: Dave Jones

8
26 ** Mass Exodus Trad 20m

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish (green line). A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the quality of the headwall finish of the original.

Start: As for 'Exodus' 2.5.

9

L to R trav

10
26 ** Copyright Direct Trad 20m

Takes the line immediately right of 'Exodus' II (white line) and left of large crack weakness (Copyright). Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of 'Exodus' II.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983

11
23 * Copyright Trad 20m

An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up.

FA: Colin Reece, Rod Young, 1979

12
19 Bit Torrent Trad

Start as for 'Copyright' and continue up crack direct to top half of 'Bootleg'.

FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison, Nic Kiraly, 2010

13
19 Bootleg Trad 20m

Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the 'thread' to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Worthwhile.

Start: Start just R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young, John Smoothy, 1979

14
15 Boot Off Trad 20m

As for 'Bootleg'.

15
23 * Revolution Rock Trad 18m

Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left.

Start: Start down R of 'Copyright' in small gully.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1983

16
20 Rasputin Trad 30m

Located on the level down and right of the 'Exodus' ledge. Takes corner then left arete of buttress above. Move up and then left of arete to ledge. Climb corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and crack.

FA: Rod Young, John Smoothy, 1979

17
23 Clash Trad 10m

Starts just right of 'Rasputin'. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1983

18
25 * I'm a Mess Trad 15m

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

19
25 * Tres Hard Trad 15m

Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.

Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

20

Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. Although the new guidebook does not hint at any danger factor regarding this route, be aware that there is no gear for 4.5m through the crux, and there is potential groundfall.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

21
11 Freckled Duck Trad 26m

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of 'Tres Hard'.

22
24 Guns of Brixton Trad 15m

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of the first line (On High) and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins 'On High' near the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1983

23
24 * On High Trad 20m

Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1979

24
25 * Non-Stop Trad 20m

Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

25
25 Cuddly Fat Trad 20m

Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie, 1982

26
19 Hassan Trad 20m

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy, 1979

27
14 Next Horizon Trad 20m

3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

28
16 Cream Puff Trad 8m

Grotty corner.

Start: Start 2m R of NH.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kazimierczak, 1990

29
24 Slip, Slop, Slap Mixed 12m, 2

Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

Start: Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

30
26 Blast Off Mixed 16m, 2

Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Slip Slop Slap'.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

31
24 Smithereens Trad 10m

3m right of 'Blast Off' and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1983

32
25 Wastemaster Mixed 10m, 2

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1988

33
26 Pull My Strings Mixed 10m, 1

Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Start: Start 7m R of W.

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1988