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Description:

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes:

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Undergraduate

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1973

13
Trad 90m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
2 ** Continuum

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

22
Trad 25m
3 *** New Image

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

21
Trad 25m
4 * Loading Zone

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, 1979

22
Trad 25m
5 * Fault Line

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

24
Trad 30m
6 Je Suis Un Legend

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockley,

20
Trad
7 ** Hidden Secrets

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

22
Trad 25m
8 * Linear Transformation

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, Peter Newman, 1979

22
Trad 25m
9 Crayons

Another bouldery start. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

22
Trad 25m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
10 * Crooked Mile

Boulder up to horizontal break (or move up chimney a few moves then move in from R). Traverse L until crack and up that, then trend L to get to rap station.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1981

18
Trad 25m
11 * Blackguard

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey, Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981

22
Trad 25m