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Description

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 Undergraduate Trad 90m

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1973

2
22 * Continuum Trad 25m

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

3
20 *** New Image Trad 25m

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

4
22 * Loading Zone Trad 25m

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, 1979

5
24 * Fault Line Trad 30m

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

6

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockly

7
22 ** Hidden Secrets Trad 25m

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

8

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, Peter Newman, 1979

9
22 Crayons Trad 25m

Another bouldery start. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

10
18 * Crooked Mile Trad 25m

Boulder up to horizontal break (or move up chimney a few moves then move in from R). Traverse L until crack and up that, then trend L to get to rap station.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1981

11
22 * Blackguard Trad 25m

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey, Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981