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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Andrew Clark Will Monks David Goldstein Gareth Llewellin Scott Nelson Dario "Mars" Mofardin Steve Bell Jamie Armitage Vanessa Wills

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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Table of contents

1. New Image Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842697, -36.755262

Description:

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes:

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Undergraduate

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1973

13
Trad 90m
Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
2 ** Continuum

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

22
Trad 25m
Rob Baker 4 years ago

really good- 1 quite balancy move

Dario "Mars" Mofardin 6 years ago

with Chris, nails crux

3 *** New Image

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

21
Trad 25m
Simon Madden 5 weeks ago

Couldn't remember having done it before. Great climbing just enough gear and in the rain to boot.

adam demmert 5 weeks ago

Re - onsight? must be about 10 years

4 * Loading Zone

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, 1979

22
Trad 25m
Andrew Clark 8 months ago

Interesting moves up to the roof. Sure that rest is better if you're short. I then ran out of g...

Will Monks 8 years ago

flash to crux, OS the rest. hard 22 & scary above roof

5 * Fault Line

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

24
Trad 30m
Andrew Scott 5 years ago

came off at bolt. cruxy

Neil Monteith 6 years ago

2nd shot. Missed it by 'that much'. DON'T bother clipping the stupid bolt - just go for it!

6 Je Suis Un Legend

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockley,

20
Trad
7 ** Hidden Secrets

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

22
Trad 25m
adam demmert 5 weeks ago

Great route, may have done this before

Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

Bouldery start, great wires and cams and stances to place them

8 * Linear Transformation

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, Peter Newman, 1979

22
Trad 25m
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

managed to get through bottom and stuffed up middle and fell n RPs

Harsha Param 6 years ago

W/ Ed.

9 Crayons

Another bouldery start. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

22
Trad 25m
Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
10 * Crooked Mile

Boulder up to horizontal break (or move up chimney a few moves then move in from R). Traverse L until crack and up that, then trend L to get to rap station.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1981

18
Trad 25m
Kieran Loughran 10 months ago

Didn't realise it was Friday 13th. Maybe accounts for the total hash I made of it. Pumped out han...

Adam Clay 2 years ago

Nice little sting in the tail - climbed with cealz and Lorien

11 * Blackguard

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey, Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981

22
Trad 25m
Will Monks 8 years ago

gear looks crap so had a quick peek first

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Undergraduate Trad 90m
18 * Crooked Mile Trad 25m
20 Je Suis Un Legend Trad
21 *** New Image Trad 25m
22 * Blackguard Trad 25m
** Continuum Trad 25m
Crayons Trad 25m
** Hidden Secrets Trad 25m
* Linear Transformation Trad 25m
* Loading Zone Trad 25m
24 * Fault Line Trad 30m