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Description

The recess between Voodoo Buttress and the main wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Descent Notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Blyth Street or 20m abseil from slings above Tarantula.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Glory Road Trad 30m

Probably superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day.

Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

2
20 * Striptease Parade Trad 30m

Straightens out 'Glory Road', making for a much better route.

Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.

FA: Craig Peacock, Malcolm Matheson, 1980

3
21 * Osmond Terrace Trad 30m

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

FA: Nyrie Dodd, Louise Shepherd., 1985

4
21 Streetwise Mixed 25m, 5

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, Bec Pirzl, 2006

5
19 R * Rat's Alley Trad 30m

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: Start on the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

6
21 ** Blyth Street Trad 35m

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Hugh Foxtrot, 1978

7

Climb straight up to the bolt on Bltyh Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Warwick Baird, 2000

8

A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.

Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, 1984

9
19 * Argyle Street Trad 15m

Climb straight up the orange wall.

Start: Below middle of orange patch.

FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

10

Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.

Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Wilkins, 1984

11

Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.

Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

12
15 Brand X Trad 12m

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

13
16 Nymph Trad 42m

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, 1967

14
16 Ckoff Trad 57m

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

15
23 * Crystal Prophet Trad 25m

Bridge up chimney then swing onto R face (no gear). Move across to flake and up to exciting exit on L. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

Start: As for 'Nymph'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982

16
26 * Crystal Vision Mixed 25m, 3

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

FA: John Smoothy, Mark Colyvan, 1986

17
19 *** Tarantula Trad 25m

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids, later freed by Kevin), 1975

18
27 Crystal Sausage Trad 25m

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990