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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDSeasonalityAll Trad climbing
The recess between Voodoo Buttress and the main wall.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, New Image Area
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Descent Notes:
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
★ Glory Road
Probably superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day.
Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
★ Striptease Parade
Straightens out 'Glory Road', making for a much better route.
Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.
FA: Craig Peacock & Malcolm Matheson, 1980
★ Osmond Terrace
As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.
Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.
FA: Nyrie Dodd & Louise Shepherd., 1985
A thin, almost-eliminate slab.
FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & Bec Pirzl, 2006
★★ Rats Alley
Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.
Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.
FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978
★★ Blyth Street
Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.
Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Hugh Foxtrot, 1978
★ Blyth Street Direct Start
Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.
Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.
FA: Warwick Baird, 2000
Deer Park Revisited
A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.
Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Terry Tremble, 1984
★ Argyle Street
Climb straight up the orange wall.
Start: Below middle of orange patch.
FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran & Jane Wilkinson, 1984
International Climbing Meat
Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.
Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Phil Wilkins, 1984
Nightmare on Elmes Street
Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.
Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Heather Phillips, 1992
Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.
Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble & Jane Wilkinson, 1984
Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.
Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967
"For historical reasons only..."
Start: Near 'Nymph'.
FA: Norm Osborne, 1970
★ Crystal Prophet
Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982
★ Crystal Vision
Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.
FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986
The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids & later freed by Kevin), 1975
Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)
FA: Ant Prehn, 1990
|18||International Climbing Meat||15m|
|Nightmare on Elmes Street||15m|
|19 R||★★||Rats Alley||30m|
|20||Deer Park Revisited||15m|
|22 X||★||Blyth Street Direct Start||12m|
|26||★||Crystal Vision||25m, 3|