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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

25m abseil from the rap stations above Wasp and Chinese Algebra. 30m abseil from the rap station above Voodoo. Or traverse R and scramble down the back into Voodoo Gully. If you go all the way to the summit rap off down the back from slings.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 * Pyrrhic Victory Trad 40m

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

FA: The Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: Nic Taylor. (Keith Lockwood eliminated some aid in 1969), 1975

2
28 * Roundabouts Trad 40m

Pre-clip bolt from PV. Climb arete to bolt, move R to another bolt, up to good ledge (desperate).

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

3
31 First Blood Sport

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 2013

4
21 *** Chinese Algebra Trad 48m

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

FA: Peter Morris, Ben Maddison, 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff., 1977

5
21 * Aussie Logic Trad 23m

Climb straight up middle of wall past 2 carrots.

Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Clive Curson, 2001

6
23 Gimp's Turn on Top Trad 24m

Is this the line with the carrot bolt(s) just R of CA?

Start: Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Andrew Collins, Paula Keeno, 1998

7
21 Full Frontal Trad 100m

Girdle of 'Voodoo Buttress'.

Start: As for CA.

  1. 25m (21) Up CA to ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Traverse R until below Wasp flake. Up and R into 'Wurlitzer' to ledge.

  3. 45m (21) Continue R on ledge, at end move up to 10m, then move R to arete and up to top.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan (alt), Neil Smith, 1979

8
23 Nausea Trad 40m

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

FA: Jim Van Gelder, Colin Reece, 1979

9
18 ** Voodoo Trad 75m

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 15m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings.

FA: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: , David Shirra, early's, 1970

10
23 Black Magic Mixed 10m, 1

Overhanging L arete.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Dave Mudie, 1989

11
24 Be Wicked Mixed 10m, 2

Roof R of 'Voodoo'.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie, 1989

12
21 * Sister Sol Trad 25m

A harder variant start to Mother's Son.

Start: 2m L of Mother's Son.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, Louise Shepherd, 1979

13
21 * Mother's Son Trad 45m

Tricky to start but soon gets easier.

FA: Richard Curtis unseconded

14
20 *** Wasp Trad 30m

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1974

15
20 Warped Trad 20m

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1979

16
18 * Wurlitzer Trad 25m

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

FA: Keith Bell, David Shirra, Ray Lassman, 1971

17
23 Heaven Scent Trad 30m

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

18

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that.

Start: 2m L of original.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

19
18 * Sound Chaser Trad 30m

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

20
23 No Stone Unturned Mixed 20m, 1

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

21

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Marc Sydnot, 1997

22
13 Spider Trad 25m

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Unknown, 2000

23
18 Spider LHV Trad 30m

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith Bell, David Shirra, 1971

24
18 Social Darwinism Mixed 20m, 1

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

25

Start: As for original.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Heather Phillips, Melanie O'Reilly, 1997

26
19 Artifact Trad 15m

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1993

27
21 Artifact RHV Trad 10m

Follow 'Artifact' for 5 metres to the ledge. Then step down and right and climb wall left of arete.

Start: Start as for 'Artifact'.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, 1996

28
21 Blockwork Orange Trad 15m

Up leaning corner to roof, then exit L (at break).

Start: Up the gully from previous routes and short corner crack.

FA: Peter Newman, 1980

29

As for original to break, then climb through roof past bolt.

Start: As for BO.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

30
20 Porcupine Trad 10m

Short crack through overlap.

Start: 5m R of BO.

FA: Wendy Eden, Jo Williams, 1994

31
18 Abacus Trad 20m

Up crack.

Start: Opposite 'Sound Chaser' (on other side of gully).

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1979