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Leads into the cliff from R of the ledge above Blythe St.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A thin crack to an overhanging corner on the L side of the gully. Pass roof on the L.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Keith Egerton, 1980

Up the wall and thin crack R of WOS to a bulge. Move R to shallow capped corner then exit L.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, John Lattanzio & Phil Parker, 1984

R of SWCF is a R-leaning crack beginning from a hand traverse. Runners were placed with a stick.

FA: John Lattanzio & Phil Parker, 1984

Up little groove then R a bit and straight up on little incuts.

Start: Opposite WOS at the L side of a mossy wall.

FA: Robin Miller & solo., 1982


Check out what is happening in Waste of Space Gully.