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Description

The wall at the top of the gully N of Nix.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Dorks on Vacation Trad 18m

Up and L to a stance, then back R and up crack to wide ledge. Finish up steep wall.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Francis, 1988

2
19 Asproman Trad 18m

Up prominent crack near gum (L of white streak) to big ledge. Finish over roof.

Start: R of DOV is a gnarly dead gum.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Francis, 1988

3
17 Romper Room II Trad 15m

Up wall, the head R to ledge. Move R again then up.

Start: Just L of 2nd gully is a wall with orange and black rock.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988

4
17 Crossing the Tees Trad 12m

Start off the flake then trend L to short L-facing corner. Up this then pass roof above just R of centre.

Start: About 2/3rds of the way up the 2nd gully is a flake resting against the wall.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988

5
18 Dotting the Is Trad 12m

R-facing corner 2m R of CTT's to ledge, then straight up.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988