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Description

In front of Voddoo buttress and Looking Glass wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach the left hand side as for 'Voodoo' buttress and then sidle around the front.

It's also quite easy to approach the right hand side by walking around the left side of the 'Death Row Pinnacle' to a small pad that goes across to the right side of Dead Point Wall, near the U-shaped gully.

The scrub in front of the wall is fairly thick so it is best not to walk directly up to the face.

Getting off the top is difficult.

© (kieranl)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Some people just can't resist a new route.

FA: Rob ?, Dave Moss, 1987

2
12 Point the Bone Trad 45m

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

3
16 Point of No Return Trad 45m

Start 2 metres right of Point The Bone, below a crack.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

4

Compact yellow face left of pine.

FA: Charlie Creese, Andrew McDougall, 1986

5

Wall just right of pine and move left above flakes to finish straight up above tree.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

6
18 Triple Nipple Trad 10m

A leftwards diagonal on the right wall of the gully.

FA: Tim Ball, Charlie Creese, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

7

Overhanging crack right of 'Triple Nipple'.

FA: Tim Ball, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

8
20 Outlaw Oats Trad 15m

Twin seams up the grey nose.

FA: Doug Fife, Chris Shepherd, 1982

9
17 * Oat Energy Trad 15m

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17!

FA: Chris Shepherd, Doug Fife, 1982

10
16 Very Little Point Trad 45m

Up cracks, through the bulge at 10 metres at it's widest point and keep going, tending maybe a little right.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of Point Of 'No Return' at the best-looking crack system near the right side of the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Mack, 1991