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In front of Voodoo Buttress and Looking Glass Wall. Quite a big wall but doesn't offer much consistent climbing.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park


Probably easiest to walk up past the left end of Death Row Pinnacle

Descent Notes

Find a big bollard at the base of the summit block, on the south-west corner. Abseil is about 15m.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Some people just can't resist a new route.

FA: Rob ? & Dave Moss, 1987

12 Point the Bone Trad 45m

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

16 Point of No Return Trad 45m

Start 2 metres right of Point The Bone, below a crack.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

16 Very Little Point Trad 45m

Up cracks, through the bulge at 10 metres at it's widest point and keep going, tending maybe a little right.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of Point Of 'No Return' at the best-looking crack system near the right side of the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Peter Mack, 1991

8 The Skeleton Coast Trad 75m 3

Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.

  1. 40m Climb clean rock on left side of the usually-dry little waterfall. Continue easily up and left to base of ridge.

  2. 20m Up to short orange corner, step right onto prow of ridge, and up easily to big ledge.

  3. 15m Bridge line 2m left of steep orange corner, and continue up nice wall on left side of the ridge to the big terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2015


Compact yellow face left of pine.

FA: Charlie Creese & Andrew McDougall, 1986


Wall just right of pine and move left above flakes to finish straight up above tree.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

18 Triple Nipple Trad 10m

A leftwards diagonal on the right wall of the gully.

FA: Tim Ball, Charlie Creese, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard & Louise Shepherd, 1985


Overhanging crack right of 'Triple Nipple'.

FA: Tim Ball, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard & Louise Shepherd, 1985

20 Outlaw Oats Trad 15m

Twin seams up the grey nose.

FA: Doug Fife & Chris Shepherd, 1982

19 * Oat Energy Trad 15m

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17!

Chains on top.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Doug Fife, 1982


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