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Description:

In front of Voddoo buttress and Looking Glass wall.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach the left hand side as for 'Voodoo' buttress and then sidle around the front.

It's also quite easy to approach the right hand side by walking around the left side of the 'Death Row Pinnacle' to a small pad that goes across to the right side of Dead Point Wall, near the U-shaped gully.

The scrub in front of the wall is fairly thick so it is best not to walk directly up to the face.

Getting off the top is difficult.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 So Much For Willpower

Some people just can't resist a new route.

FA: Rob ?, Dave Moss, 1987

22
Trad 8m
2 Point the Bone

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

12
Trad 45m
3 Point of No Return

Start 2 metres right of Point The Bone, below a crack.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

16
Trad 45m
4 Was It Good For You, Louise?

Compact yellow face left of pine.

FA: Charlie Creese, Andrew McDougall, 1986

16
Trad 15m
5 Better Red Point Than Dead Point

Wall just right of pine and move left above flakes to finish straight up above tree.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

17
Trad 15m
6 Triple Nipple

A leftwards diagonal on the right wall of the gully.

FA: Tim Ball, Charlie Creese, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

18
Trad 10m
7 The Fat One Who Eats Meat

Overhanging crack right of 'Triple Nipple'.

FA: Tim Ball, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

18
Trad 10m
8 Outlaw Oats

Twin seams up the grey nose.

FA: Doug Fife, Chris Shepherd, 1982

20
Trad 15m
9 * Oat Energy

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17!

FA: Chris Shepherd, Doug Fife, 1982

17
Trad 15m
10 Very Little Point

Up cracks, through the bulge at 10 metres at it's widest point and keep going, tending maybe a little right.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of Point Of 'No Return' at the best-looking crack system near the right side of the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Mack, 1991

16
Trad 45m