Site navigation

Looking Glass Wall 20 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 37m
  • Style: Mostly Trad
  • Ascents: 135

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

KML KML

Description:

The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Doo Voo

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

FA: Allan Hope, Peter Watling, 1991

9
Trad 35m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
2 Happy Balance

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall.

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green,

21 R
Trad 18m
3 Hard and Fast

Contrived and poorly protected.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

19 R
Trad 55m
4 Hand Job

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

15
Trad 57m
5 * Menage a Trois

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

16
Trad 53m
6 * Blow by Blow

A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

16 R
Trad 59m
7 Sore Point

Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

18
Trad 40m
8 Rock Soff

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

13
Trad 58m
9 Grand Prix

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

19
Trad 30m
10 Hot Tip

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

15
Trad 50m
11 Goanna

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

12
Trad 60m
12 Lies

Up until the obvious line veers left up to the roof. Climb the roof and finish straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Secret Police'

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1986

18
Trad 25m
13 Secret Police

The prominent recessed orange groove to an intimidating roof. Over roof and up black wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

21
Trad 25m
14 Wormwood

.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

16
Trad 25m
15 Undercover Agent

Line 6 metres right of 'Wormwood', passing through two bulges low down (finish right of top roof.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead (carrigan led cruxy 2nd bulge on 2nd ascent), 1979

21
Trad 25m
16 * Big Brother

Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Move left and up face.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

23
Trad 25m
17 Cornflakes

Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.

Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother'

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins, Scott Camps, 1988

25
Trad 20m
18 Defector

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979

13
Trad 15m
19 Final Blow

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock. It'll be 25 metres if you traverse to the rap-anchor like most people do on this face.

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

FA: Darren Williams, Kylie Burford, 1995

20
Trad 55m
20 Four Wheel Drive

Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.

Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.

FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998

25 X
Trad 18m