Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Doo Voo
Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange '. Finish up crack in headwall.
FA: Allan Hope, Peter Watling, 1991
9
Trad 35m
Route Grade Style Popularity
2
Happy Balance
Brushed streak at left end of the main wall.
Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast , about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo '.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green,
21 R
Trad 18m
3
Hard and Fast
Contrived and poorly protected.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976
19 R
Trad 55m
4
Hand Job
The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance ' has a hard, poorly protected start.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976
15
Trad 57m
5
Menage a Trois
Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job '.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976
16
Trad 53m
6
Blow by Blow
A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976
16 R
Trad 59m
7
Sore Point
Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.
FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981
18
Trad 40m
8
Rock Soff
Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,
or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976
13
Trad 58m
9
Grand Prix
Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff ' and boulder up.
FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981
19
Trad 30m
10
Hot Tip
Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.
Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff ' in middle of white streak.
FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976
15
Trad 50m
11
Goanna
Climb streak all the way past ledges.
Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip ' at another water streak
FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981
12
Trad 60m
12
Lies
Up until the obvious line veers left up to the roof. Climb the roof and finish straight up.
Start: Start as for 'Secret Police '
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1986
18
Trad 25m
13
Secret Police
The prominent recessed orange groove to an intimidating roof. Over roof and up black wall.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979
21
Trad 25m
14
Wormwood
.
FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979
16
Trad 25m
15
Undercover Agent
Line 6 metres right of 'Wormwood ', passing through two bulges low down (finish right of top roof.
FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead (carrigan led cruxy 2nd bulge on 2nd ascent), 1979
21
Trad 25m
16
Big Brother
Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Move left and up face.
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent '
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979
23
Trad 25m
17
Cornflakes
Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.
Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother '
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins, Scott Camps, 1988
25
Trad 20m
18
Defector
Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes '. Finish up a small orange corner.
FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979
13
Trad 15m
19
Final Blow
Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock. It'll be 25 metres if you traverse to the rap-anchor like most people do on this face.
Start: Start between 'Hand Job ' and Menage A Trois .
FA: Darren Williams, Kylie Burford, 1995
20
Trad 55m
20
Four Wheel Drive
Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.
Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance '.
FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998
25 X
Trad 18m