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Description

The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
9 Doo Voo Trad 35m

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

FA: Allan Hope, Peter Watling, 1991

2
21 R Happy Balance Trad 18m

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall.

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green

3
19 R Hard and Fast Trad 55m

Contrived and poorly protected.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

4
15 Hand Job Trad 57m

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

5
16 * Menage a Trois Trad 53m

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

6
16 R * Blow by Blow Trad 59m

A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

7
18 Sore Point Trad 40m

Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

8
13 Rock Soff Trad 58m

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

9
19 Grand Prix Trad 30m

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

10
15 Hot Tip Trad 50m

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

11
12 Goanna Trad 60m

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

12
18 Lies Trad 25m

Up until the obvious line veers left up to the roof. Climb the roof and finish straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Secret Police'

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1986

13
21 Secret Police Trad 25m

The prominent recessed orange groove to an intimidating roof. Over roof and up black wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

14
16 Wormwood Trad 25m

.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

15
21 Undercover Agent Trad 25m

Line 6 metres right of 'Wormwood', passing through two bulges low down (finish right of top roof.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead (carrigan led cruxy 2nd bulge on 2nd ascent), 1979

16
23 * Big Brother Trad 25m

Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Move left and up face.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

17
25 Cornflakes Trad 20m

Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.

Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother'

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins, Scott Camps, 1988

18
13 Defector Trad 15m

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979

19
20 Final Blow Trad 55m

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock. It'll be 25 metres if you traverse to the rap-anchor like most people do on this face.

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

FA: Darren Williams, Kylie Burford, 1995

20
25 X Four Wheel Drive Trad 18m

Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.

Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.

FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998