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Description

The orange face at the R end of Looking Glass wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Come Clean Trad 45m

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

FA: Jack Lewis & Michael Persin, 1995

2
18 Lies Trad 25m

Up until the obvious line veers left up to the roof. Climb the roof and finish straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Secret Police'

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1986

3
21 Secret Police Trad 25m

The prominent recessed orange groove to an intimidating roof. Over roof and up black wall. The site of a bee hive as of 2015.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan & Peter Newman, 1979

4
16 * Wormwood Trad 25m

.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

5
21 Undercover Agent Trad 25m

Line 6 metres right of 'Wormwood', passing through two bulges low down (finish right of top roof.

FA: Craig Nottle & Mark Moorhead (carrigan led cruxy 2nd bulge on 2nd ascent), 1979

6
23 * Big Brother Trad 25m

Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Dyno up left and up face.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979

7

After the dyno move R to the bolt and up through the rooflet.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2015

8

At the end of the flake head R along the tenuous diagonal and up the overhang. Just toproped.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2014

9
25 * Cornflakes Trad 20m

Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.

Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother'

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins & Scott Camps, 1988

10
13 Defector Trad 15m

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979

Activity

Check out what is happening in Ministry Wall.