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Table of contents

1. Voodoo Area 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842156, -36.754836

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. New Image Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842697, -36.755262

Description:

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Descent Notes:

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Undergraduate

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1973

13Trad 90m
2 * Continuum

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

22Trad 25m
3 *** New Image

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

20Trad 25m
4 * Loading Zone

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, 1979

22Trad 25m
5 * Fault Line

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

24Trad 30m
6 Je Suis un Legend

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockly

20Trad
7 ** Hidden Secrets

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

22Trad 25m
8 * Linear Transformation

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, Peter Newman, 1979

22Trad 25m
9 Crayons

Another bouldery start. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

22Trad 25m
10 * Crooked Mile

Boulder up to horizontal break (or move up chimney a few moves then move in from R). Traverse L until crack and up that, then trend L to get to rap station.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1981

18Trad 25m
11 * Blackguard

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey, Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981

22Trad 25m

1.2. Rats Alley 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The recess between Voodoo Buttress and the main wall.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Blyth Street or 20m abseil from slings above Tarantula.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glory Road

Probably superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day.

Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

20Trad 30m
2 * Striptease Parade

Straightens out 'Glory Road', making for a much better route.

Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.

FA: Craig Peacock, Malcolm Matheson, 1980

20Trad 30m
3 * Osmond Terrace

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

FA: Nyrie Dodd, Louise Shepherd., 1985

21Trad 30m
4 Streetwise

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, Bec Pirzl, 2006

21Mixed 25m, 5
5 * Rat's Alley

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: Start on the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

19 RTrad 30m
6 ** Blyth Street

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Hugh Foxtrot, 1978

21Trad 35m
7 * Blyth Street Direct Start

Climb straight up to the bolt on Bltyh Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Warwick Baird, 2000

22Trad 12m
8 Deer Park Revisited

A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.

Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, 1984

20Trad 15m
9 * Argyle Street

Climb straight up the orange wall.

Start: Below middle of orange patch.

FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

19Trad 15m
10 International Climbing Meat

Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.

Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Wilkins, 1984

18Trad 15m
11 Nightmare on Elmes Street

Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.

Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

19Trad 15m
12 Brand X

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

15Trad 12m
13 Nymph

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, 1967

16Trad 42m
14 Ckoff

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

16Trad 57m
15 * Crystal Prophet

Bridge up chimney then swing onto R face (no gear). Move across to flake and up to exciting exit on L. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

Start: As for 'Nymph'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982

23Trad 25m
16 * Crystal Vision

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

FA: John Smoothy, Mark Colyvan, 1986

26Mixed 25m, 3
17 *** Tarantula

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids, later freed by Kevin), 1975

19Trad 25m
18 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

27Trad 25m

1.3. Voodoo Buttress 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842382, -36.755030

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap stations above Wasp and Chinese Algebra. 30m abseil from the rap station above Voodoo. Or traverse R and scramble down the back into Voodoo Gully. If you go all the way to the summit rap off down the back from slings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pyrrhic Victory

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

FA: The Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: Nic Taylor. (Keith Lockwood eliminated some aid in 1969), 1975

19Trad 40m
2 * Roundabouts

Pre-clip bolt from PV. Climb arete to bolt, move R to another bolt, up to good ledge (desperate).

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

28Trad 40m
3 First Blood

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 2013

31Sport
4 *** Chinese Algebra

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

FA: Peter Morris, Ben Maddison, 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff., 1977

21Trad 48m
5 * Aussie Logic

Climb straight up middle of wall past 2 carrots.

Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Clive Curson, 2001

21Trad 23m
6 Gimp's Turn on Top

Is this the line with the carrot bolt(s) just R of CA?

Start: Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Andrew Collins, Paula Keeno, 1998

23Trad 24m
7 Full Frontal

Girdle of 'Voodoo Buttress'.

Start: As for CA.

  1. 25m (21) Up CA to ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Traverse R until below Wasp flake. Up and R into 'Wurlitzer' to ledge.

  3. 45m (21) Continue R on ledge, at end move up to 10m, then move R to arete and up to top.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan (alt), Neil Smith, 1979

21Trad 100m
8 Nausea

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

FA: Jim Van Gelder, Colin Reece, 1979

23Trad 40m
9 ** Voodoo

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 15m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings.

FA: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: , David Shirra, early's, 1970

18Trad 75m
10 Black Magic

Overhanging L arete.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Dave Mudie, 1989

23Mixed 10m, 1
11 Be Wicked

Roof R of 'Voodoo'.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie, 1989

24Mixed 10m, 2
12 * Sister Sol

A harder variant start to Mother's Son.

Start: 2m L of Mother's Son.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, Louise Shepherd, 1979

21Trad 25m
13 * Mother's Son

Tricky to start but soon gets easier.

FA: Richard Curtis unseconded

21Trad 45m
14 *** Wasp

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1974

20Trad 30m
15 Warped

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1979

20Trad 20m
16 * Wurlitzer

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

FA: Keith Bell, David Shirra, Ray Lassman, 1971

18Trad 25m
17 Heaven Scent

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Trad 30m
18 Sound Chaser Direct Start

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that.

Start: 2m L of original.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

20Trad 30m
19 * Sound Chaser

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

18Trad 30m
20 No Stone Unturned

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

23Mixed 20m, 1
21 Silk Ties, Candle Wax and Ice

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Marc Sydnot, 1997

20Trad 25m
22 Spider

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 25m
23 Spider LHV

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith Bell, David Shirra, 1971

18Trad 30m
24 Social Darwinism

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

18Mixed 20m, 1
25 Social Darwinism Direct Finish

Start: As for original.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Heather Phillips, Melanie O'Reilly, 1997

20Mixed 15m, 1
26 Artifact

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1993

19Trad 15m
27 Artifact RHV

Follow 'Artifact' for 5 metres to the ledge. Then step down and right and climb wall left of arete.

Start: Start as for 'Artifact'.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, 1996

21Trad 10m
28 Blockwork Orange

Up leaning corner to roof, then exit L (at break).

Start: Up the gully from previous routes and short corner crack.

FA: Peter Newman, 1980

21Trad 15m
29 Blockwork Orange Direct Finish

As for original to break, then climb through roof past bolt.

Start: As for BO.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

25Mixed 18m, 1
30 Porcupine

Short crack through overlap.

Start: 5m R of BO.

FA: Wendy Eden, Jo Williams, 1994

20Trad 10m
31 Abacus

Up crack.

Start: Opposite 'Sound Chaser' (on other side of gully).

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1979

18Trad 20m

1.4. Waste of Space Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Leads into the cliff from R of the ledge above Blythe St.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Waste of Space

A thin crack to an overhanging corner on the L side of the gully. Pass roof on the L.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Keith Egerton, 1980

18Trad 15m
2 Seething Well's Cheesy Foreskin

Up the wall and thin crack R of WOS to a bulge. Move R to shallow capped corner then exit L.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, John Lattanzio, Phil Parker, 1984

23Trad 15m
3 I Wanna Be Your Dog

R of SWCF is a R-leaning crack beginning from a hand traverse. Runners were placed with a stick.

FA: John Lattanzio, Phil Parker, 1984

25Trad 15m
4 Nix

Up little groove then R a bit and straight up on little incuts.

Start: Opposite WOS at the L side of a mossy wall.

FA: Robin Miller, solo., 1982

17Trad 15m

1.5. Dork Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The wall at the top of the gully N of Nix.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dorks on Vacation

Up and L to a stance, then back R and up crack to wide ledge. Finish up steep wall.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Francis, 1988

18Trad 18m
2 Asproman

Up prominent crack near gum (L of white streak) to big ledge. Finish over roof.

Start: R of DOV is a gnarly dead gum.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Francis, 1988

19Trad 18m
3 Romper Room II

Up wall, the head R to ledge. Move R again then up.

Start: Just L of 2nd gully is a wall with orange and black rock.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988

17Trad 15m
4 Crossing the Tees

Start off the flake then trend L to short L-facing corner. Up this then pass roof above just R of centre.

Start: About 2/3rds of the way up the 2nd gully is a flake resting against the wall.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988

17Trad 12m
5 Dotting the Is

R-facing corner 2m R of CTT's to ledge, then straight up.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1988

18Trad 12m

1.6. Dead-point Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

In front of Voddoo buttress and Looking Glass wall.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach the left hand side as for 'Voodoo' buttress and then sidle around the front.

It's also quite easy to approach the right hand side by walking around the left side of the 'Death Row Pinnacle' to a small pad that goes across to the right side of Dead Point Wall, near the U-shaped gully.

The scrub in front of the wall is fairly thick so it is best not to walk directly up to the face.

Getting off the top is difficult.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 So Much For Willpower

Some people just can't resist a new route.

FA: Rob ?, Dave Moss, 1987

22Trad 8m
2 Point the Bone

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

12Trad 45m
3 Point of No Return

Start 2 metres right of Point The Bone, below a crack.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

16Trad 45m
4 Was It Good For You, Louise?

Compact yellow face left of pine.

FA: Charlie Creese, Andrew McDougall, 1986

16Trad 15m
5 Better Red Point Than Dead Point

Wall just right of pine and move left above flakes to finish straight up above tree.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

17Trad 15m
6 Triple Nipple

A leftwards diagonal on the right wall of the gully.

FA: Tim Ball, Charlie Creese, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

18Trad 10m
7 The Fat One Who Eats Meat

Overhanging crack right of 'Triple Nipple'.

FA: Tim Ball, Nyrie Dodd, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, 1985

18Trad 10m
8 Outlaw Oats

Twin seams up the grey nose.

FA: Doug Fife, Chris Shepherd, 1982

20Trad 15m
9 * Oat Energy

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17!

FA: Chris Shepherd, Doug Fife, 1982

17Trad 15m
10 Very Little Point

Up cracks, through the bulge at 10 metres at it's widest point and keep going, tending maybe a little right.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of Point Of 'No Return' at the best-looking crack system near the right side of the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Mack, 1991

16Trad 45m

1.7. Looking Glass Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.841527, -36.754671

Description:

The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doo Voo

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

FA: Allan Hope, Peter Watling, 1991

9Trad 35m
2 Happy Balance

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall.

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green

21 RTrad 18m
3 Hard and Fast

Contrived and poorly protected.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

19 RTrad 55m
4 Hand Job

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

15Trad 57m
5 * Menage a Trois

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

16Trad 53m
6 * Blow by Blow

A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

16 RTrad 59m
7 Sore Point

Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

18Trad 40m
8 Rock Soff

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

13Trad 58m
9 Grand Prix

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

19Trad 30m
10 Hot Tip

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1976

15Trad 50m
11 Goanna

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

12Trad 60m
12 Lies

Up until the obvious line veers left up to the roof. Climb the roof and finish straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Secret Police'

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1986

18Trad 25m
13 Secret Police

The prominent recessed orange groove to an intimidating roof. Over roof and up black wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

21Trad 25m
14 Wormwood

.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

16Trad 25m
15 Undercover Agent

Line 6 metres right of 'Wormwood', passing through two bulges low down (finish right of top roof.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead (carrigan led cruxy 2nd bulge on 2nd ascent), 1979

21Trad 25m
16 * Big Brother

Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Move left and up face.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

23Trad 25m
17 Cornflakes

Either of two extreme starts lead to right diagonal flake. Undercling strenuously right and up to cave.

Direct finish breaks straight up from diagonal overlap, finishing up and around corner and roof at top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Big Brother'

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir. Direct finish : Paul Hoskins, Scott Camps, 1988

25Trad 20m
18 Defector

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1979

13Trad 15m
19 Final Blow

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock. It'll be 25 metres if you traverse to the rap-anchor like most people do on this face.

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

FA: Darren Williams, Kylie Burford, 1995

20Trad 55m
20 Four Wheel Drive

Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.

Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.

FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998

25 XTrad 18m

1.8. Ministry Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The orange face at the R end of Logging Glass wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come Clean

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

FA: Jack Lewis, Michael Persin, 1995

12Trad 45m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 Doo Voo Trad 35m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
12 Point the Bone Trad 45m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Goanna Trad 60m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Come Clean Trad 45m 1.8. Ministry Wall
13 Undergraduate Trad 90m 1.1. New Image Wall
Spider Trad 25m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Defector Trad 15m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Rock Soff Trad 58m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
15 Brand X Trad 12m 1.2. Rats Alley
Hand Job Trad 57m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Hot Tip Trad 50m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
16 Ckoff Trad 57m 1.2. Rats Alley
Nymph Trad 42m 1.2. Rats Alley
Point of No Return Trad 45m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Very Little Point Trad 45m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Was It Good For You, Louise? Trad 15m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
* Blow by Blow Trad 59m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
* Menage a Trois Trad 53m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Wormwood Trad 25m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
17 Nix Trad 15m 1.4. Waste of Space Gully
Crossing the Tees Trad 12m 1.5. Dork Wall
Romper Room II Trad 15m 1.5. Dork Wall
Better Red Point Than Dead Point Trad 15m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
* Oat Energy Trad 15m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
18 * Crooked Mile Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
International Climbing Meat Trad 15m 1.2. Rats Alley
Abacus Trad 20m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Social Darwinism Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Sound Chaser Trad 30m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Spider LHV Trad 30m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
** Voodoo Trad 75m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Wurlitzer Trad 25m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Waste of Space Trad 15m 1.4. Waste of Space Gully
Dorks on Vacation Trad 18m 1.5. Dork Wall
Dotting the Is Trad 12m 1.5. Dork Wall
The Fat One Who Eats Meat Trad 10m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Triple Nipple Trad 10m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Lies Trad 25m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Sore Point Trad 40m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
19 * Argyle Street Trad 15m 1.2. Rats Alley
Nightmare on Elmes Street Trad 15m 1.2. Rats Alley
* Rat's Alley Trad 30m 1.2. Rats Alley
*** Tarantula Trad 25m 1.2. Rats Alley
Artifact Trad 15m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Pyrrhic Victory Trad 40m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Asproman Trad 18m 1.5. Dork Wall
Grand Prix Trad 30m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Hard and Fast Trad 55m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
20 Je Suis un Legend Trad 1.1. New Image Wall
*** New Image Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
Deer Park Revisited Trad 15m 1.2. Rats Alley
Glory Road Trad 30m 1.2. Rats Alley
* Striptease Parade Trad 30m 1.2. Rats Alley
Porcupine Trad 10m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Silk Ties, Candle Wax and Ice Trad 25m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Social Darwinism Direct Finish Mixed 15m, 1 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Sound Chaser Direct Start Trad 30m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Warped Trad 20m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
*** Wasp Trad 30m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Outlaw Oats Trad 15m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
Final Blow Trad 55m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
21 ** Blyth Street Trad 35m 1.2. Rats Alley
* Osmond Terrace Trad 30m 1.2. Rats Alley
Streetwise Mixed 25m, 5 1.2. Rats Alley
Artifact RHV Trad 10m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Aussie Logic Trad 23m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Blockwork Orange Trad 15m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
*** Chinese Algebra Trad 48m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Full Frontal Trad 100m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Mother's Son Trad 45m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
* Sister Sol Trad 25m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Happy Balance Trad 18m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Secret Police Trad 25m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Undercover Agent Trad 25m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
22 * Blackguard Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
* Continuum Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
Crayons Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
** Hidden Secrets Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
* Linear Transformation Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
* Loading Zone Trad 25m 1.1. New Image Wall
* Blyth Street Direct Start Trad 12m 1.2. Rats Alley
So Much For Willpower Trad 8m 1.6. Dead-point Wall
23 * Crystal Prophet Trad 25m 1.2. Rats Alley
Black Magic Mixed 10m, 1 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Gimp's Turn on Top Trad 24m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Heaven Scent Trad 30m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Nausea Trad 40m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
No Stone Unturned Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
Seething Well's Cheesy Foreskin Trad 15m 1.4. Waste of Space Gully
* Big Brother Trad 25m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
24 * Fault Line Trad 30m 1.1. New Image Wall
Be Wicked Mixed 10m, 2 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
25 Blockwork Orange Direct Finish Mixed 18m, 1 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
I Wanna Be Your Dog Trad 15m 1.4. Waste of Space Gully
Cornflakes Trad 20m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
Four Wheel Drive Trad 18m 1.7. Looking Glass Wall
26 * Crystal Vision Mixed 25m, 3 1.2. Rats Alley
27 Crystal Sausage Trad 25m 1.2. Rats Alley
28 * Roundabouts Trad 40m 1.3. Voodoo Buttress
31 First Blood Sport 1.3. Voodoo Buttress