routes as trad in Rats Alley
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Showing all 18 routes.
|20|| Glory Road
Probably superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day.
Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|20|| Striptease Parade
Straightens out 'Glory Road', making for a much better route.
Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.
FA: Craig Peacock & Malcolm Matheson, 1980
|21|| Osmond Terrace
As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.
Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.
FA: Nyrie Dodd & Louise Shepherd., 1985
A thin, almost-eliminate slab.
FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & Bec Pirzl, 2006
|19 R|| Rats Alley
Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.
Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.
FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978
|21|| Blyth Street
Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.
Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Hugh Foxtrot, 1978
|22 X|| Blyth Street Direct Start
Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.
Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.
FA: Warwick Baird, 2000
|20||Deer Park Revisited
A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.
Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Terry Tremble, 1984
|19|| Argyle Street
Climb straight up the orange wall.
Start: Below middle of orange patch.
FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran & Jane Wilkinson, 1984
|18||International Climbing Meat
Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.
Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Phil Wilkins, 1984
|19||Nightmare on Elmes Street
Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.
Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Heather Phillips, 1992
Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.
Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble & Jane Wilkinson, 1984
Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.
Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 17 Aug
"For historical reasons only..."
Start: Near 'Nymph'.
FA: Norm Osborne, 1970
|23|| Crystal Prophet
Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982
|26|| Crystal Vision
Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.
FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986
The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids & later freed by Kevin), 1975
Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)
FA: Ant Prehn, 1990
Showing all 18 routes.