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Description:© (deano)

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Peter Morris & Ben Maddison, 16 May 1977

  • First Free Ascent: Kevin Lindorff., Aug 1977


Located in Voodoo Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.755030,141.842382

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 ** ACA Route Register
21 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid powerful crux sustained difficult hard super beautiful cool nice perfect fantastic good sweet great lovely exciting classic awesome fall tricky committing slippery feet rest interesting arete technical layback weird easy crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Chinese Algebra (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.