Section navigation

Description:© (koala)

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 15m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

  • First Free Ascent: , David Shirra & early's, 1970


Located in Voodoo Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.842382,-36.755030

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 65%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid crank crux pleasant beautiful ripper fun cool nice fantastic good great lovely enjoyable classic awesome scary tricky steep interesting awkward dodgy slopey roof weird short face easy cruisy traverse crack

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Voodoo (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.