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Description:© (koala)

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 15m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

  • First Free Ascent: , David Shirra & early's, 1970

Location:  

Located in Voodoo Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.842382,-36.755030

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
18 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 ** ** ACA Route Register
18 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 66%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

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