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Description:© (deano)

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Bell & Keith Lockwood, 31 Dec 1974


Located in Voodoo Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.755030,141.842382

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
20 ACA Route Register
20 RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 74%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid dyno crux sustained desperate hard magic cool nice fantastic good sweet brilliant great classic awesome scary fall tricky committing steep slippery feet reachy sloper layback flake easy undercling crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Wasp (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.