Left Watchtower Face All Trad climbing36 routes in cliff
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Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
The first abseil is quite long, I only just made it on 50m ropes with stretch. Knot the ends. There is a plethora of stuff for the ropes to get hung up on so it's probably best to have the knot on the RIGHT side of anchor (facing in towards the cliff) so you are pulling out away from the corner system of Siren.
Second abseil is down and a long way LEFT (facing in towards the cliff) to the 2nd belay of Hot Flap. It may be possible to get directly to the ground on 60m ropes, but I haven't tried. 50m ropes do not reach.
Third abseil is straightforward.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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