A wonderful long classic, A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner
Nice pitch high on the face.
|4|| Hot Flap
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected. Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'. 1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete. 2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt. 3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner. 4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'. 5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.
|10|| Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses
|13|| Oedipus Rex
Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special. Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood). 1. 30m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with Creon). Get some runners, don't rely only on the fragile-looking thread, then traverse right under bulge, veer up right for 4 metres then straight up to belay at old bolt. Not a lot of good protection after the thread. 2. 45m (13) Up broken area to big ledge and on up to 'Rotten Row'. 3. 42m (14) Climb black bulge then smooth wall to bolt. On up face to left end of sloping ledge and up left to bigger ledge. 4. 30m (16) Step right and up small, left-facing corner to the roof. Take flake through ceiling with hard move at lip. Easily up. Original finish took steep flake directly above belay (17) and then up through overhangs.
Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided. 1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.) 2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left. 3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree. 4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.
|21|| Wall of the Afternoon Sun
A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch. Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance). 1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt. Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt. 2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner. 3. 22m (17) Up the little corner until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'. 4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.
|23|| Take Five
Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. 1. 45m (20) Straight up the clean streak passing small bulge to tiny stance level with base of chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'. There's an unprotected move of about grade 16-17 at 7 metres. 2. 40m (19) Up short crack then slab to ledge. Straight up left-hand streak then step right to tricky last move to 'Rotten Row'. Alternatively, from the ledge take the right-hand streak (21) to 'Rotten Row' (WOTAS is just to the right). Graham Sanders, Steve Howden 10-10-1982. 3. 48m (17) From the tree, move left a little then follow the clean streak to the top, crossing Wall Of The Afternoon Sun at the horizontal break.
|29|| Watchtower Chimney
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack. 1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past a bolt and climb the corner to small ledge. 2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney 3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above 4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.
|20|| Sunset Strait
Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bollard or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge.
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