Topo #1222

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
3 *** Arachnus Chimeny Chimney

Start as arachnus until the second pitch. Instead of veering right, just continue straight on nice chicken heads to join Watchtower Chimney's last pitch. Not a new route. Pitch two is one of many existing variants to Arachnus. Route will be left as-is for now until TheCrag works out a way of conveniently handling variants (could be some time) You could join pitch two and three for a nice ~50 metre one. That's actually what I did by accident.

10 Trad 99m Unlink route
4 *** Arachnus

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately) Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercat section and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'. 1) (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete befor climbing bulge). 2) (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack.Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower. 3) (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress. 4) (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

9 Trad 110m Unlink route
5 *** Arachnus Variant (Minerva)

A very popular variant on 'Arachnus', but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three. Start: Start as for 'Arachnus'. 1) 40m (8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. 2) 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang. 3) 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay. 4) 30m (8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

9 Trad 120m Unlink route
2 * Mr Chicken

Slither like a ferret behind the giant Watchtower flake, starting from Watchtower Crack (top pitch start) and ending up in the 'Watchtower Chimney'.

-- Trad 20m Unlink route