Showing all 35 nodes.
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Right Watchtower Face
The best rock in this area - and indeed on the mountain. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area |
16
★ Flamingo
Start up the Watchtower Crack and then take a crack that leads up left to join original finish of 'Pumping' Part 1, a sweeping crack that leads to the large ledge at the first belay of Watchtower Crack. |
16
★★★ Watchtower Crack
Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam
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18
Watches
An obvious link pitch but it doesn't justify the voyage required to do it. Climb Watchtower Crack until level with the Skink traverse, then climb towards the arete and finish up Arachnus. |
18
★★★ Skink
A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb. The majority of the route remains in the shade until late morning. Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.
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15 X
Sidewinder
If anyone suggests doing this climb, make sure they second the dangerous abseil section. If anyone is even considering extending the climb by girdling the left Watchtower face and linking the two, could you please shoot yourself beforehand and save the rest of us the bother. |
22
★ Pumping Part II
The intimidating second pitch is a long, absorbing lead. A much better and more logical version of the old Mark Moorhead route of the same name. Sections of the two original pitches have been combined, the useless remnants of the copper bashie on the crux have been replaced with a bolt and a new first pitch added. Best to use a 70m+ rope. Starts as for Watchtower Crack. 1) 40m (17) Up Watchtower Crack for 15m to veer R into the shallow flake line (Smeagol). At the overlaps pull directly through (Smeagol moves R here) and continue on up the brown slab veering very slightly L into the easy corner. Up this to cross Salamander (wide crack) and surmount the short wide flake to a small ledge directly underneath the start of the curving arch of R-leading overlaps. The belay works best with a couple of very large cams, the equivalent of Dragon cam #5 (blue) and #6 (grey). 2) 55m (22) Step L and up the wall past the bolt (crux). Continue straight up to the end of the Skink traverse. Pull directly through and sail up the wall above to join Gollum at its crux. Continue as for Gollum. The belay is about 6m back from the cliff edge. Mark Moorhead climbed the crux section of the second pitch (having come in from Watchtower Crack) before traversing back into Watchtower Crack by reversing the Skink traverse (1979). He returned in 1980 to traverse back out along the Skink traverse and then up across the wall to join Gollum. First climbed as described Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest. |
20 R
★★ Gollum
Two interesting pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has cleaned up enormously over the years. Start: Usually started by climbing 'The Confession' as the first pitch. Belay on the ring-bolts at the top of pitch 1 of 'Auto Da Fe'.
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14
★★ Salamander
Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.
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15
★ Smeagol
Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier. Start: As for 'The Confession'.
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16 R
★★ The Confession
Very good pitch. Make sure to take some tiny wires for the crux move. Start 10 metres right of Watchtower Crack at a little block. Note: this route is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's '99 guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230. |
18
★ Skink Connection
Normally done as part of Gollum and is described as the first pitch of that climb. |
21
No Road Between
Generally moderate slab climbing with good but spaced gear leading to trickier terrain up the final streak providing an alternative first pitch for Gollum. Double ropes and a big rack help to arrange protection. Climb midway between The Confession and Auto de Fe, mostly 1.5 – 2m left of Auto de Fe. At about 2/3 height cross the small diagonal overlap and follow the brown streak with 2 parallel white stripes (clearly seen in the topo on p278 of Metz/Tempest guide) to the ledge. This climb description was derived from a Chockstone post by Stuart. |
21 R
★★★ Auto Da Fe
A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles. Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable
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22
★ Perentie
The companion route to Auto Da Fe. The first pitch is contrived but the climbing is enjoyable and quite well protected on its head-wall crux. The second pitch is the technical crux and although it is bolt-protected (and therefore far less serious than Auto Da Fe) it is still an intimidating lead. A single rope can be used but bring plenty of slings. Small tri-cams, RPs and a good range of small- and micro-cams are indispensable. Starts four metres R of the jump start on Auto Da Fe at the base of the grey concave wall (at the very bottom of the rap line down the wall on the rough stone pavement).
This route has a complex history. The crux section past the bolt on the second pitch was climbed in June 1996 by Tim Day and Wade Stevens (and named Perentie). The upper head-wall on the first pitch is probably Auto Da Fear by Muki Woods. Significant sections of both pitches have been climbed by others in the past. The route was brushed, added to, straightened, rebolted and climbed in its current form by Glenn and Karen Tempest in winter 2018. |
22 X
auto de fear
chop route, no gear, 23 slabing with an X rating |
20
★★ Fly Lichen Eagle
The superb second pitch has only one drawback, the possibility of being knocked off by an abseil rope from above. This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before the abseil route went in. Nowadays most leaders keep waiting for the scary runout bit and discover that the gear is fine. Start midway between 'Auto Da Fe' and 'Gecko' below the abseil line.
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14
★ Gecko
A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to 'Salamander' or as a climb in its own right. |
14
★★ Gecko / Salamander Link
As for Gecko (14) to the rap chains then follow Salamander to the top. |
15
★ Monitor
Starts midway between 'Gecko' and 'Brolga'. Originally finished up 'Salamander' (as described) but stepping left into 'Smeagol' provides a more consistent grade.
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18
★★ Waiwera (Brolga DF)
The original finish of 'Brolga' and the best way to finish the climb, if the rap route is not in use. Probably grade 18 if the final bulge to the rap anchor is taken direct or about 14 if taken further left. At end of Brolga P2, up and left to join 'Fly lichen Eagle'. |
16 R
★★★ Brolga
Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off of the slight ledge just above the path.
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16
★ Thank Heavens for the Tasman
Plugs the gap between 'Brolga' and The Mantle; a void not improved by the filling. Start 3 metres right of 'Brolga'.
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14
★★ Mantle
More great slabbing. Start: 8 metres right of 'Brolga', directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
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14
★ Lounge Lizard
The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower. Start 5 metres right of 'The Mantle' at a clean seam.
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14
★ Blue Tongue
Another mossy filler. Start 8 metres right of Lounge LIzard on cleanish rock.
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14
Chameleon
Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'. |
14
★ Chameleon Connection
This route combines the best bits of 'Chameleon' and 'Joyride' as well as imrpoving the first pitch of 'Chameleon'. Start 25 metres right of 'Brolga' at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of 'Omaha Beach'.
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13
★ Joyride
Another climb superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'. |
18
★★ Omaha Beach
Another clean streak that is proving popular. Start: 10m Left of 'Panzer'.
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17
★ Chockstone staircase
A fun pitch that tackles the left side of the Panzer pinnacle/turret. A nice finishing pitch to Omaha Beach. From the belay after the second pitch of Panzer climb directly up into overhanging corner. Mantle up to reach a second overhang protected by a steep vertical crack. Careful of the loose rock at the top. Belay on top of the pinnacle. |
12
★★ Panzer
Start: Directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
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19
★ Battle Of The Bulge
Good climbing. Crux bulge is protected by a bolt. Originally graded 16. |
15
Kampfwagon
Start on the terrace of Panzer's first belay, 4 metres right of the 'Panzer' corner. |
11
Malcolm’s Bent Friends
A gentle introduction to the joys of slabbing. Take a selection of cams, bent or otherwise. Start right of Panzer at clean streak – Battle of the Bulge.
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Showing all 35 nodes.