Topo #1223

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2 *** Watchtower Crack

Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam 1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge. 2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave. 3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete. 4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

16 Mixed 100m 4, 3 Unlink route
4 *** Skink

A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb. Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'. 1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (first pitch of Watchtower Crack). 2. 40m (18) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cave (second pitch of Watchtower Crack) and up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line and move up to very small stance which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of 'Gollum' a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are. 3. 42m (17) Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.

18 Trad 110m 3 Unlink route
8 ** Salamander

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'. 1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (as for pitch 1 of 'The Watchtower' Crack). 2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweeping to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch. 3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain). 4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge. 5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

14 Trad 120m 5 Unlink route
10 * The Confession

Very good pitch. Make sure to take some tiny wires for the crux move. Start 10 metres right of Watchtower Crack at a little block. Note: this route is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's '99 guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230.

16 R Trad 45m Unlink route
7 ** Gollum

Two interesting pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has cleaned up enormously over the years. Start: Usually started by climbing 'The Confession' as the first pitch. Belay on the ring-bolts at the top of pitch 1 of 'Auto Da Fe'. 1. 25m (18) up and through the overlaps. Traverse left above second overlap then up wall veering left into 'Skink'. 2. 30m (20) Go up to a peg on the left arete. Step left and weave your way up the wall until it eases. Continue up and finish direct over the final overlap.

20 R Trad 60m 2 Unlink route
13 *** Auto Da Fe

A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles. Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable 1. 40m (21) up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery thin section to a belay ledge and rap station. 2. 20m (21) head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift right to meet 'Skink',belay possible and best to avoid rope drag. 3. 30m (21) from the belay in 'Skink' head left and climb the wall and heel hook onto the slab and up to the top, small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.

21 R Trad 90m 3 Unlink route
15 ** Fly Lichen Eagle

The superb second pitch has only one drawback, the possibility of being knocked off by an abseil rope from above. This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before abseil route went in. Start midway between 'Auto Da Fe' and 'Gecko' below the abseil line. 1. 45m (17) Unprotected to bulge at 6 metres. Continue up to the abseil chains, keeping religiously between the other climbs. 2. 45m (20) From just left of chains go boldly up clean streak. At horizontal, step right to tricky moves leading to easier ground. Up to overlap, step left, up overhang and so to top abseil bolts.

20 X Trad 90m 2 Unlink route
16 * Gecko

A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to 'Salamander' or as a climb in its own right.

14 Trad 48m Unlink route
18 Monitor

The climb originally finished up 'Salamander' but stepping left into 'Smeagol' is much better. Start: Midway between 'Gecko' and 'Brolga'. 1. 25m (15) Straight up middle of slab, keeping roughly midway between 'Gecko' and 'Brolga'.

15 Trad 100m Unlink route
20 *** Brolga

Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. Start: Middle of the face. 1. 30m (15) Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear. 2. 45m (16) The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge. 3. 40m (14) A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.

16 R Trad 120m 3 Unlink route
22 ** Mantle

More great slabbing. Start: 8 metres right of 'Brolga', directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground. 27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor. 14m (6) Easily up.

14 Trad 94m Unlink route
26 Chameleon Connection

This route combines the best bits of 'Chameleon' and 'Joyride' as well as imrpoving the first pitch of 'Chameleon'. Start 25 metres right of 'Brolga' at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of 'Omaha Beach'. 1. 27m (14) Up technical seam then straight up mossy, easy ground to left end of good ledge. 2. 22m (13) Step left and through steepening then straight up to little horizontal break level with terrace on right. Traverse right and belay below small, right-facing corner at left side of terrace. 3. 39m (13) Corner and wall to big ledge. 4. 18m (10) Move right and up two short walls then easy scramble off right.

13 Trad 110m 4 Unlink route
28 ** Omaha Beach

Another clean streak that is proving popular. Start: 10m Left of 'Panzer'. 1. 30m (18) Climb bulging wall to easier ground. Move back L and straight up through weakness in undercut bulge. Belay as for 'Panzer'. 2. 30m (16) Up Panzer's corner crack then traverse L following the flake. At the top of the flake go straight up and belay in V corner. The flake section at the beginning of this pitch was first done by Ed Neve, Peter Megens, Garry Wills as a variant to 'Panzer'. 27-04-1980. 3. 20m (8) Scrabble to the top following crack up and L.

18 Mixed 80m 3, 1 Unlink route
29 ** Panzer

Start: Directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder. 1. 40m (12) Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, travers delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner. 2. 25m (12) Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower. 3. 30m (12) Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.

12 Trad 95m 3 Unlink route

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