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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 Maginot Line Trad 30m

Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1993

2
22 Under Control Trad 30m

Line left of Amok.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

3
23 * Amok Trad 30m

Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Roddy McKenzie, 1981

4
24 Small Creeps Trad 30m

Tall creeps will do better.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln and Chris Shepherd, 1983

5
25 Able-Bodied Mixed 30m, 1

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

6
24 AB Ciege Trad 20m

Start at right end of wall right of Amok.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, 1981

7
21 Ice is Nice Trad 23m

Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, 1983

8
20 Chuckle Chuckle Trad 20m

Originally graded 18 without grinning.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

9
18 Crash Bang Wallop Trad 20m

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983