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A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
21 Maginot Line Trad 30m

Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height. Absolutely covered in moss these days.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1993

22 X Under Control Trad 30m

Line left of Amok. No gear on crux.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

23 * Amok Trad 30m

Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Roddy McKenzie, 1981


Toproped line R of Amok. Might go on gear, large cam in pocket.

24 Small Creeps Trad 30m

Tall creeps will do better. Has a carrot up high.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln & Chris Shepherd, 1983

25 Able-Bodied Mixed 30m, 1

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

24 AB Ciege Trad 20m

Start at right end of wall right of Amok, 2m L of corner. A few hard moves up the seam, then it's easy.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan & Evelyn Lees, 1981

21 Ice is Nice Trad 23m

'Only in drinks' - Lou's guide

Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, 1983

23 * Chuckle Chuckle Trad 20m

Originally graded 18 without grinning. Might be 24. Really nice rock and climbing. Despite being soloed it has gear, mostly small cams (not available in '83!). Chain on top.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

18 Crash Bang Wallop Trad 20m

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

17 Armchair critic Trad 15m

10m along the ledge leading to Amok is an old callitris growing diagonally. Behind it are 2 cracks ending in a bulge. This is the left one.


Check out what is happening in Amok Wall.