A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- Description:© (willmonks)
A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height. Absolutely covered in moss these days.
FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1993
Line left of Amok. No gear on crux.
FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985
Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed.
Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Roddy McKenzie, 1981
Toproped line R of Amok. Might go on gear, large cam in pocket.
FA: @duglash,@estherenita, 2013
Tall creeps will do better.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln and Chris Shepherd, 1983
Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
Start at right end of wall right of Amok.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, 1981
Ice is Nice
'Only in drinks' - Lou's guide
Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.
FA: Craig Nottle, 1983
Originally graded 18 without grinning.
FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983
Crash Bang Wallop
Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.
FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983
|18||Crash Bang Wallop||20m|
|21||Ice is Nice||23m|
|22 X||Under Control||30m|