A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Amok Wall 10 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maginot Line

Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height. Absolutely covered in moss these days.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1993

21 Trad 30m
2 Under Control

Line left of Amok. No gear on crux.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

22 X Trad 30m
3 * Amok

Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Roddy McKenzie, 1981

23 Trad 30m
4 Attractively Restrained

Toproped line R of Amok. Might go on gear, large cam in pocket.

FA: @duglash,@estherenita, 2013

24 Trad 15m
5 Small Creeps

Tall creeps will do better.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln and Chris Shepherd, 1983

24 Trad 30m
6 Able-Bodied

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

25 Mixed 30m, 1
7 AB Ciege

Start at right end of wall right of Amok.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, 1981

24 Trad 20m
8 Ice is Nice

'Only in drinks' - Lou's guide

Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, 1983

21 Trad 23m
9 Chuckle Chuckle

Originally graded 18 without grinning.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

20 Trad 20m
10 Crash Bang Wallop

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

18 Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
18 Crash Bang Wallop Trad 20m
20 Chuckle Chuckle Trad 20m
21 Ice is Nice Trad 23m
Maginot Line Trad 30m
22 X Under Control Trad 30m
23 * Amok Trad 30m
24 AB Ciege Trad 20m
Attractively Restrained Trad 15m
Small Creeps Trad 30m
25 Able-Bodied Mixed 30m, 1