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Table of contents

1. Watchtower Area 230 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.838505, -36.751497

Description:© (secretary)

One of the most impressive sheer walls at the mountain. Contains many three star multi-pitch classics - some of the best routes 'Arapiles' has to offer.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach:© (secretary)

The very obvious face about 1km from the campsite heading west.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Pinnacle Face 48 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.839151, -36.752372

1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area 13 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kermit

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1995

9 Trad 20m
2 Wedding Tackle

From left gain faint groove which slants up left

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

16 Trad 20m
3 Earthly Pleasures

Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

16 Trad 15m
4 Lusts of the Flesh

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

14 Trad 14m
5 Carnal Intent

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

14 Trad 15m
6 Identifying Bill Clinton

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

FA: Loughran, Sleeman, 1996

10 Trad 12m
7 Another Chelsea Morning

Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 2000

16 Trad 10m
8 Hillary's Dog

Start: Short line R of IBC.

FA: Loughran, Sleeman, 1996

13 Trad 10m
9 Rumour

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

20 Trad 10m
10 Scuttlebutt

Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

16 Trad 10m
11 Furphy

Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

20 Trad 20m
12 Inextricably

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1984

23 Trad 12m
13 Mentor

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1977

12 Trad 36m

1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area 10 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden Apples

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

  1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

  2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

  3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

FA: Norm Booth and Keith Lockwood, 2013

13 Trad 95m 3
2 The Green Singer

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

  1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

  2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

  3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

  4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

FA: Lockwood. (var)

FA: Keith and Tim, 2002

14 Trad 130m 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Aphrodite

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

  1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

  2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

  3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

FA: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, 1998

10 Trad 95m 3
4 The Slot

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

  1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

  2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

FA: Peter Jackson, Doug Angus. Alternate finish : Ian Guild, Doug Hatt., 1964

11 Trad 100m 2
5 Tiptoe Corner

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

FA: Darryl Carr, Bernie Lyons, 1967

13 Trad 35m
6 No Buts

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent, 1982

23 Trad 40m
7 * Next of Kin

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1982

23 R Trad 40m
8 * Consenting Adults

Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent, Chris Baxter, Robin Miller, Kim Carrigan, 1982

22 Trad 40m
9 Moonlighting

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

FA: Recorded : Annette Halley, Jenni Martin, Dave Kitching, Marian Lester, 1992

12 Trad 40m
10 *** Tiptoe Ridge

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Steve Craddock, 1963

5 Trad 120m 5

1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge 19 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Through the Tulips

Up slab to roof and through.

Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, Martin Bride and Pritchard, 1995

18 Trad 10m
2 No Charlie, It Wasn't

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

4 Trad 10m
3 Beer and Trembling

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

FA: Greg Pritxchard, Nicki Sunderland, 1992

8 Trad 10m
4 Falling Numbers

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993

8 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Free Beer

"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993

18 Trad 30m
6 Chookfest 93

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh, Annette Jone, 1993

12 Trad 30m
7 Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

8 Trad 30m
8 Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine

Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge.

FA: Jon Muir, Greg Pritchard, Graeme Singh, Annette Jones, 1993

18 Trad 30m
9 Father Figure

The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers.

FA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2014

18 Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Bossy Mothers

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey, 1981

20 Mixed 15m, 1
11 Just Out of Habit

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

23 Trad 20m
12 Cruella de Ville

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

FA: Robin Miller, Andrea Hayes, 1986

20 Trad 15m
13 His Master's Vice

Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Swainson, 1986

15 Trad 15m
14 Llama Sutra

Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Nicky Sunderland, 1992

16 Trad 8m
15 PearI Jam

Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1992

16 Trad 16m
16 Let Them Eat Ralph

Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1992

19 Trad 15m
17 Ordinary Trees

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

  1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

  2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

  3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

  4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and punters from Melb. Uni, 1993

6 Trad 150m 4
18 ** Introductory Route

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

  2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

  3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

  4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock, Peter Jackson, 16th Nov

5 Trad 140m 4
19 Barren Waste 13 Trad 170m

1.1.4. Siren Area 6 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Siren

A wonderful long classic, A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Steve Craddock, 1963

8 Trad 150m 5
2 ** Siren Direct Finish

From Siren's fourth belay, step right around little roof and follow corner.

To finish things off properly, climb the small right-facing corner up and left from the belay.

FA: Ian Guild, Doug Hatt.., 1964

12 Trad 40m
3 Siren Left Wall

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 25th May

15 Mixed 30m, 2
4 ** Xena

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

  1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

  3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

  4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

FA: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

10 Trad 110m 4
5 * Tales of Brave Ulysses

A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton, 1978

18 Trad 40m
6 Tauraroa

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch.

FA: John Bennett and MUMC team. 1960s, 2000

9 Trad 120m

1.2. Left Watchtower Face 35 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.838284, -36.752078

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rotten Row

Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner.

FA: Steve and Bob Craddock, 31st Dec

5 Trad 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Argonauts

Nice pitch high on the face.

FA: Steve Williams, Keith Lockwood, 1986

19 Trad 40m
3 Roll Dem Bones

Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) 'Hot Flap Direct Start' might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent.

Start as for 'Hot Flap', below the flake marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 23m (-) Up to the base of the flake and step L. Follow thin cracks up the face and over a steepening. Follow easy ground up and move R to belay on L edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face' (1st belay of Hot Flap).

  2. 35m (18) Move out R a few metres as for 'Hot Flap' and go up to a flake (if you get to a bolt you are about 3m too far R). Go up 5-7m R of the large chimney until the face steepens after about 20m. Get some wires in a flake then move L and boldly up (crux). Above the steepening, traverse 2m R below a thin overlap and then go back L and pull over the overlap. Easier ground leads up dirty groove to ledge on the 'Siren' traverse.

  3. 20m (-) Up the corner above then directly up to a good ledge below the recessed wall L of 'Siren' Buttress.

  4. 28m (-) An unpleasant crack marks the L side of the recessed wall. From below this crack move out L to an arete. Follow the easy but delightful arete to the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, Keith Lockwood, 1997

18 R Trad 100m 4
4 *** Hot Flap

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

  2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

  3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

  4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

  5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

FA: John Fahey, Bob Bull, 14th Feb

14 R Mixed 170m 5, 2
5 Tauraroa Direct Start

A logical but not very appealing start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1978

17 Trad 25m
6 * Hot Flap Direct Start

This obvious start to 'Hot Flap' is well protected at the hardest point but then has a long runout on mossy rock. Still worth a star though.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Rob Taylor, 1967

16 R Trad 50m
7 Between the Lines

An interesting exploration that is superseded by other climbs.

FA: Ed Neve, Nick Reeves, 1978

16 R Trad 53m
8 * Sang Froid

Marginal protection on first pitch. Both this pitch and the its next-door neighbour 'Puppet' On A String are very good pitches but possibly the most serious of their grades at 'Arapiles'. Still not sure if they deserve the skull-and-crossbones (have taken them off this climb) but they are very serious.

Peter Watling accidentally climbed this pitch in the 70's thinking it was 'Hot Flap' Direct Start!

  1. 50m (18) Climb up midway between the black moss streaks to join 'Hot Flap'. Belay when rope runs out.

  2. 35m (-) Up to Siren's corner and climb right wall to stance just below Hot Flap's fourth pitch traverse.

  3. 35m (17) Up over traverse line then delicately up on black rock to two horizontal cracks. Step right to runners then back left and up impressive headwall to terrace.

  4. 10m (-) Groove in final wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1983

18 R Trad 130m 4
9 Puppet on a String

Another pitch in a similar vein to 'Sang Froid', possibly the scarier of the two. 'Argonauts' makes a good finish.

FA: Dennis Kemp, Stephen Hamilton, Dave Mudie, 1987

18 X Trad 50m
10 *** Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses 18 Trad 110m
11 * Creon

A good climb all of the way. Finishing up Tales Of Brave Ulysses makes it even better.

Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).

  1. 50m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with 'Oedipus' Rex). Delicate climbing to left-leading diagonal flake line. Follow these, then straight up to join 'Hot Flap'. Belay on small ledge when the rope runs out.

  2. 50m (16) Up to the 'Siren' buttress and take the left-hand line up the front of this (right-hand line is Tales Of Brave Ulysses). This pitch can easily be split into two as on the first ascent.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Watling, Nick Reeves (alt), 1979

17 Trad 95m 2
12 New Route (name coming soon))

Start as for C/OR but continue straight up mossy wall where they go left and right. We continued straight up and then through Hot Flap. Could do with a clean up.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Rob Saunders, 2012

Trad 60m
13 ** Oedipus Rex

Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special.

Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).

  1. 30m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with Creon). Get some runners, don't rely only on the fragile-looking thread, then traverse right under bulge, veer up right for 4 metres then straight up to belay at old bolt. Not a lot of good protection after the thread.

  2. 45m (13) Up broken area to big ledge and on up to 'Rotten Row'.

  3. 42m (14) Climb black bulge then smooth wall to bolt. On up face to left end of sloping ledge and up left to bigger ledge.

  4. 30m (16) Step right and up small, left-facing corner to the roof. Take flake through ceiling with hard move at lip. Easily up. Original finish took steep flake directly above belay (17) and then up through overhangs.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, Clive Parker, 1968

17 R Trad 150m 4
14 Oedipal Wrecks

Not a bad start. Reasonable, if fiddly gear.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, 1994

20 Trad 30m
15 Home of the Brave

Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch.

There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 45m (15) Up the chimney (Driftwood) for 12 metres and step left to ledge on arete with large block. Step left again and up to right end of large, bushy ledge. Up clean crack above and then continue up line of flakes around 3 metres left of 'Driftwood, taking care with a fragile section,' to small ledge.

  2. 28m (14) Pretty much straight up to large ledge. Traverse 2-3 metres right to orange streak (Antigone) and climb this to 'Rotten Row'.

  3. 38m (14) Continue up, delicately at first to large diagonal ledge below Hot Flap's final pitch.

  4. 25m (16) From the top of the step halfway along the ledge, climb the wall, moving left at first, to a large detached flake. Step back right and staright up wall and slab to crack in roof and up to join 'Hot Flap'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Felicity Rousseaux, Meg Sleeman, 1989

16 R Trad 140m 4
16 Driftwood

A strange, unbalanced climb. Few people will do the climb as a whole, using the initial chimney as the start of another climb or doing the final, evil chimney after starting up something else.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 60m (13) Up the deep line to large ledge. Either a 60 metres rope or a semi-hanging belay at some point is required.

  2. 16m (18) Walk 30 metres right into the chimney and belay. Climb the glass-smooth chimney (big cam).

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Garry Kerkin.

FA: Peter Jackson and John Fahey climbed pitch 3 in earlyby traversing in from Siren., 1964

18 Trad 120m 2
17 ** Driftwood/Antigone

FA: Speedie, Stone, Kerkin / Caffin, Wilcox

14 Trad 120m
18 * Antigone

A very nice climb at the grade.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 60m (13) Up chimney to large ledge (as for Driftwood). If you don't have a 60 metre rope there is a comfortable belay niche at 20m [as used on the first ascent] which allows 2 reasonable length pitches.

  2. 48m (14) Up orange streak to ledge then left and up wall to big ledge on left.

  3. 16m (12) Walk 10 metres left and up flake.

FA: Roger Caffin, Sue Wilcox, 10th Apr

15 Trad 120m 3
19 ** Sundance

Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.

  1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.)

  2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left.

  3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree.

  4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1976

15 Trad 140m 4
20 Sunset Strait

Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bolt anchors or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge.

FA: Stuart Hollaway & Dale Thistlethwaite, 2012

20 Trad 60m
21 Red Sky At Night

FA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2015

FFA: 2015

20 Mixed 30m, 2
22 The Burning Fields

FFA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2015

19 Mixed 33m, 2
23 *** Wall of the Afternoon Sun

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

  1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt. Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

  2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

  3. 22m (17) Up the little corner until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

  4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

FFA: Peter McKeand

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1969

19 Trad 140m 4
24 If You're Lucky

Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS.

Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey.., 1982

23 Trad 40m
25 *** Take Five

Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. 45m (20) Straight up the clean streak passing small bulge to tiny stance level with base of chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'. There's an unprotected move of about grade 16-17 at 7 metres.

  2. 40m (19) Up short crack then slab to ledge. Straight up left-hand streak then step right to tricky last move to 'Rotten Row'. Alternatively, from the ledge take the right-hand streak (21) to 'Rotten Row' (WOTAS is just to the right). Graham Sanders, Steve Howden 10-10-1982.

  3. 48m (17) From the tree, move left a little then follow the clean streak to the top, crossing Wall Of The Afternoon Sun at the horizontal break.

FA: Robin Miller (solo).., 1982

20 R Trad 140m 3
26 Tschumpel

Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'.

FA: Bruno Zeller, Anne McKenzie, 1969

5 Trad 42m
27 Senile

Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'.

FA: Bruno Zeller, Anne McKenzie, 1969

7 Trad 40m
28 Bindi

Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel'

FA: Chris Baxter, Derek Lord, 1967

5 Trad 25m
29 Pantouflage

Good finish but the crack is awful.

Start: At the end of the first pitch of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Jim Bright, 1973

15 Trad 96m
30 The Last Kind of Hunger

Thoughtful and aesthetic climbing with good protection on brilliant rock. Harder and perhaps a bit more committing than 'Take Five' but without the runout at the start (although you want to concentrate for the start of pitch 3). The line is obvious in the photo on p273 of the current Tempest/Mentz guide.

Start up 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start', the bottomless crack 3m R of Take Five.

  1. 45m (21)Take 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start' to the base of the corner, step left and head up the water-smooth slab (21) between the corner of 'Watchtower Chimney' and the obvious streak of 'Take Five'. At one point high on the pitch you can reach right to place a runner in the corner but continue climbing directly up the slab to belay on the small ledge as for 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  2. 20m (19) Head up left across the 'Pantouflage' crack. Either climb seams up the blunt arete - excellent protection but hard with a slopey finish (24? not lead cleanly on 1st ascent), traverse further left to follow 'Take Five' (19) or step back into the crack (the crux is the forestry required to exit back left onto the slab) to reach the ledge.

  3. 25m (18) Move the belay into the bottom of the 'Driftwood' chimney. From the base of the chimney, initially move up left towards 'Wall Of The Afternoon Sun' with poor pro for 5-6m, then step back right to head directly up the streak (18) to the hanging R facing corner leading onto Rotten Row'.

Follow 'Rotten Row', continue up the wall above or rappel from the rings about 8m R of the corner. There is a single U-bolt overhead at the base of the 'Driftwood' chimney; a 60m abseil from this reaches the ground.

Description taken from Stuart's post on Chockstone

FA: Stuart Hollaway,Peter Arch, Alice Arch, 2012

21 Trad 90m 3
31 * Watchtower Chimney Direct Start / The Watchtower Chimney DS

Crack 3 metres right of 'Take Five' and 6 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. When it fades continue boldly up to join 'Watchtower Chimney'.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling.., 1980

20 R Trad 15m
32 ** Watchtower Chimney

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

  1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past a bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

  2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

  3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

  4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin, 26th Jun

12 Mixed 110m 4, 1
33 Radio Days

Runout, though avoidable, start.

Start at the base of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. 15m (20) Swing out left and climb nose direct to slab above and belay at old bolt on Watchtower Chimney's traverse.

  2. 30m (-) Go straight up above bolt. Move left on narrow ledge then go up line right of arete to terrace.

  3. 50m (-) Finish how you wish.

FA: Maureen Gallagher, Chris Baxter (alt) and David Gallagher, 1987

20 Trad 95m 3
34 Man Overboard

Start: At foot of Chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. 27m (18) Climb past left side of horizontal overlap. Up wall then veer right. Up wall and over horizontal flake near arete. Traverse right to below orange corner.

  2. 28m (18) Up wall on left of corner, over bulge, then up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Williams, 1985

18 Trad 55m 2
35 ** colonal's eleven

No idea where this is supposed to be

15 Trad 30m

1.3. The Watchtower 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.837614, -36.751890

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Business as Usual

Worthless one move wonder. May be easier for tall people. Start as for Arachnus, but take thin, left-leaning crack over crux bulge.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1972

18 Trad 110m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Mr Chicken

Slither like a ferret behind the giant Watchtower flake, starting from Watchtower Crack (top pitch start) and ending up in the 'Watchtower Chimney'.

FA: Davey Jones, 1996

-- Trad 20m
3 *** Arachnus Chimeny Chimney

Start as arachnus until the second pitch. Instead of veering right, just continue straight on nice chicken heads to join Watchtower Chimney's last pitch. Not a new route. Pitch two is one of many existing variants to Arachnus. Route will be left as-is for now until TheCrag works out a way of conveniently handling variants (could be some time)

You could join pitch two and three for a nice ~50 metre one. That's actually what I did by accident.

10 Trad 99m 4
4 *** Arachnus

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately)

Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercat section and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete befor climbing bulge).

  2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack.Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

  3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

  4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

FA: Ian Speedie, Rob McQuilkin, 1st Nov

9 Trad 110m 4
5 *** Arachnus Variant (Minerva) / Minerva

A very popular variant on 'Arachnus', but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

Start: Start as for 'Arachnus'.

  1. 40m (8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge.

  2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

  3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

  4. 30m (8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

FA: Ivan Dainis, Gwenn Ward, 1965

FA: Ivan Dainis, Gwenn Ward, 12th Jun

9 R Trad 120m 4
6 * A Rack of Phobias

The right arete of 'Arachnus'. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations.

12 Trad 110m
7 ** Xenomorph

Might be a tad undergraded...

Start: Approach up any one of Watchtower Crack, 'Stumpy Tail' or 'Arachnus', or rap in from the top.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

26 Mixed 30m, 3
8 * Stumpy Tail

Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. Pitches 2 and 3 are both good, but the start of pitch 4 detracts. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up 'Pumping' and finish up 'Xenomorph' for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26.

Start: Start as for Watchtower Crack.

  1. 33m (12) Take Watchtower Crack (or 'Pumping', or Flamingo) to large ledge.

  2. 20m (20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete.

  3. 10m (23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete.

  4. 50m (18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3-4m L of Watchtower Crack, adequately protected by small-med cams. Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the 'Arachnus' face for the last 20m.

FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, 2005

23 Trad 110m 4
9 * Pumping

The thin undercut seam above the cave left of the start of Watchtower Crack gets a star despite the fiddly gear to start and the pathetic rap sling. The very bold second pitch is rarely done and is written up separately (Pumping Part II), in the 'Right Watchtower Face' section.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

25 Trad 120m

1.4. Right Watchtower Face 32 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.836659, -36.751605

Description:© (secretary)

The best rock in this area - and indeed on the mountain.

Approach:© (secretary)

The big streaked and polished face, right of the Watchtower.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flamingo

Start up the Watchtower Crack and then take a crack that leads up left to join original finish of 'Pumping' Part 1, a sweeping crack that leads to the large ledge at the first belay of Watchtower Crack.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Newman, Nick Reeves., 1978

16 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 *** Watchtower Crack

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 6th Mar

16 Mixed 100m 4, 3
3 Watches

An obvious link pitch but it doesn't justify the voyage required to do it.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Morhead, 1980

18 Trad 25m
4 *** Skink

A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb.

Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (first pitch of Watchtower Crack).

  2. 40m (18) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cave (second pitch of Watchtower Crack) and up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line and move up to very small stance which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of 'Gollum' a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are.

  3. 42m (17) Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 25th Apr

18 Trad 110m 3
5 Sidewinder

If anyone suggests doing this climb, make sure they second the dangerous abseil section.

If anyone is even considering extending the climb by girdling the left Watchtower face and linking the two, could you please shoot yourself beforehand and save the rest of us the bother.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

15 X Mixed 180m, 3
6 * Pumping Part II

This climb is very rarely done because of the seriousness of the first pitch, originally climbed as the second pitch of 'Pumping'.

Start on the first belay of Watchtower Crack, after doing 'Pumping' and not lowering off.

To further enhance the experience you could probably run the two pitches together with a 70 metre rope - that would be a trip.

  1. 40m (23) Start up easy corner, moving right into very thin corner. Up this corner, then right to break in roof. Climb boldly up wall above to end of 'Skink' traverse. Go left to belay in Watchtower Crack. A very serious pitch.

  2. 48m (20) Move back right to the centre of The 'Skink' traverse and climb straight up to join 'Gollum'. Finish up 'Gollum'. This pitch would be good in its own right but it is still quite serious.

FA: Pitch 1: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan. Pitch 2, 1979

FA: Mark Moorhead and many more., 1980

23 X Trad 88m 2
7 ** Gollum

Two interesting pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has cleaned up enormously over the years.

Start: Usually started by climbing 'The Confession' as the first pitch. Belay on the ring-bolts at the top of pitch 1 of 'Auto Da Fe'.

  1. 25m (18) up and through the overlaps. Traverse left above second overlap then up wall veering left into 'Skink'.

  2. 30m (20) Go up to a peg on the left arete. Step left and weave your way up the wall until it eases. Continue up and finish direct over the final overlap.

FA: Pitch 1 (Skink Connection) : Peter and Kevin Lindorff. Pitch 2 : Andrew Thomson, Mike Stone, 1976

20 R Trad 60m 2
8 ** Salamander

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing.

Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (as for pitch 1 of 'The Watchtower' Crack).

  2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweeping to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.

  3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).

  4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.

  5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 19th Dec

14 Trad 120m 5
9 ** Smeagol

Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier.

Start: As for 'The Confession'.

  1. 45m (15) Start up 'The Confession' for 3-4m then verge left and up to tiny corner. Continue up left edge of the orange streak to a long right-facing flake/corner. Follow this to the big overhang which is turned on its right-hand edge. Once above the overhang, another corner leads direct to the left end of the 'Salamander' ledge. Belay on the ring bolts as for 'Auto Da Fe'.

  2. 15m (15) Up white streaks 2m left of the belay, over overlap, then right to chains. (Noddy first did this pitch around 1975 when putting up 'The Confession' (before 'Skink' Connection, 'Gollum' et al went that way)).

  3. 50m (15) Climb Salamander's 4th pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the left wall. Traverse 2m left as soon as possible - with the horizontal slot at head level - any higher, and you miss the best climbing. Then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top. Pull through summit overhang on the left. (Noddy did the upper part of this pitch on the FA of Brolga).

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) This climb has been about 30 years in the making, although the above party were first to do it in its entirety., 2004

15 Trad 110m 3
10 * The Confession

Very good pitch. Make sure to take some tiny wires for the crux move.

Start 10 metres right of Watchtower Crack at a little block.

Note: this route is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's '99 guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1975

16 R Trad 45m
11 Skink Connection

Normally done as part of Gollum and is described as the first pitch of that climb.

18 Trad 25m
12 Perentie

Between 2nd pitches of 'Auto Da Fe' and 'Fly Lichen Eagle'.

Start: At the rap anchors in the middle of the RWF (Salamander ledge).

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens., 1996

21 Mixed 50m, 1
13 No Road Between

Generally moderate slab climbing with good but spaced gear leading to trickier terrain up the final streak providing an alternative first pitch for Gollum. Double ropes and a big rack help to arrange protection.

Climb midway between The Confession and Auto de Fe, mostly 1.5 – 2m left of Auto de Fe. At about 2/3 height cross the small diagonal overlap and follow the brown streak with 2 parallel white stripes (clearly seen in the topo on p278 of Metz/Tempest guide) to the ledge.

This climb description was derived from a Chockstone post by Stuart.

FA: Stuart Holloway, Lachie Currie, 2005

21 Trad 40m
14 *** Auto Da Fe

A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles.

Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable

  1. 40m (21) up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery thin section to a belay ledge and rap station.

  2. 20m (21) head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift right to meet 'Skink',belay possible and best to avoid rope drag.

  3. 30m (21) from the belay in 'Skink' head left and climb the wall and heel hook onto the slab and up to the top, small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.

FA: Robin Miller, Kim Karrigan, 1982

21 R Trad 90m 3
15 auto de fear

chop route, no gear, 23 slabing with an X rating

FA: muki Woods

22 X Trad 40m
16 ** Fly Lichen Eagle

The superb second pitch has only one drawback, the possibility of being knocked off by an abseil rope from above.

This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before abseil route went in.

Start midway between 'Auto Da Fe' and 'Gecko' below the abseil line.

  1. 45m (17) Unprotected to bulge at 6 metres. Continue up to the abseil chains, keeping religiously between the other climbs.

  2. 45m (20) From just left of chains go boldly up clean streak. At horizontal, step right to tricky moves leading to easier ground. Up to overlap, step left, up overhang and so to top abseil bolts.

FA: Chris Baxter, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens, 1983

20 X Trad 90m 2
17 * Gecko

A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to 'Salamander' or as a climb in its own right.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 7th Aug

14 Trad 48m
18 Gecko / Salamander Link

As for Gecko (14) to the rap chains then follow Salamander to the top.

14 Trad 100m 3
19 Monitor

The climb originally finished up 'Salamander' but stepping left into 'Smeagol' is much better.

Start: Midway between 'Gecko' and 'Brolga'.

  1. 25m (15) Straight up middle of slab, keeping roughly midway between 'Gecko' and 'Brolga'.
15 Trad 100m
20 * Waiwera (Brolga DF)

The original finish of 'Brolga' and the best way to finish the climb, if the rap route is not in use. Probably grade 18 if the final bulge to the rap anchor is taken direct or about 14 if taken further left. At end of Brolga P2, up and left to join 'Fly lichen Eagle'.

FA: D.Smith, 1994

18 Trad 20m
21 *** Brolga

Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock.

Start: Middle of the face.

  1. 30m (15) Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear.

  2. 45m (16) The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge.

  3. 40m (14) A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman, 1975

16 R Trad 120m 3
22 Thank Heavens for the Tasman

Plugs the gap between 'Brolga' and The Mantle; a void not improved by the filling.

Start 3 metres right of 'Brolga'.

  1. 35m (16) Up easily and slightly right. Swing back left to below tree and belay just left of this.

  2. 50m (16) Middle of wall between 'Brolga' and 'The Mantle', veering slightly left then right over slight bulge to easier ground.

  3. 10m (-) Up.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

16 Trad 95m 3
23 ** Mantle

More great slabbing.

Start: 8 metres right of 'Brolga', directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.

27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor. 14m (6) Easily up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 24th Apr

14 Trad 94m
24 Lounge Lizard

The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower.

Start 5 metres right of 'The Mantle' at a clean seam.

  1. 27m (14) Up seam then step right to right-facing flake/overlap. Up on left sde of this to ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Up diagonally right to flake and clump of spear grass at 8 metres. Above left are two horizontal overlaps on bulge in wall. Pass these on the left, then back up right to good anchors. The bulge can be climbed direct at grade 20 with poor protection (Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson 1984).

  3. 48m (12) Straight up.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill, Barry Edwards, 1981

14 Trad 95m 3
25 Blue Tongue

Another mossy filler.

Start 8 metres right of Lounge LIzard on cleanish rock.

  1. 25m (14) Left past two holes near ground. step right an wander up to the base of a short corner (Chameleon).

  2. 50m (14) Up corner, over bulge and up.

  3. 10m (-) Up

FA: Peter Kraehenbuhl, Darren Crawford, 1990

14 Trad 85m 3
26 Chameleon

Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1983

14 Trad 90m
27 Chameleon Connection

This route combines the best bits of 'Chameleon' and 'Joyride' as well as imrpoving the first pitch of 'Chameleon'.

Start 25 metres right of 'Brolga' at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of 'Omaha Beach'.

  1. 27m (14) Up technical seam then straight up mossy, easy ground to left end of good ledge.

  2. 22m (13) Step left and through steepening then straight up to little horizontal break level with terrace on right. Traverse right and belay below small, right-facing corner at left side of terrace.

  3. 39m (13) Corner and wall to big ledge.

  4. 18m (10) Move right and up two short walls then easy scramble off right.

FA: See Chameleon and Joyride, 2000

13 Trad 110m 4
28 Joyride

Another climb superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood, Kathy Burman (alt), 1975

13 Trad 100m
29 ** Omaha Beach

Another clean streak that is proving popular.

Start: 10m Left of 'Panzer'.

  1. 30m (18) Climb bulging wall to easier ground. Move back L and straight up through weakness in undercut bulge. Belay as for 'Panzer'.

  2. 30m (16) Up Panzer's corner crack then traverse L following the flake. At the top of the flake go straight up and belay in V corner. The flake section at the beginning of this pitch was first done by Ed Neve, Peter Megens, Garry Wills as a variant to 'Panzer'. 27-04-1980.

  3. 20m (8) Scrabble to the top following crack up and L.

FA: Yosef Murphy, Shaun Kratzer

18 Mixed 80m 3, 1
30 ** Panzer

Start: Directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.

  1. 40m (12) Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, travers delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner.

  2. 25m (12) Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower.

  3. 30m (12) Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.

FA: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone, 19th Mar

12 Trad 95m 3
31 Battle Of The Bulge

Good climbing but crux bulge is poorly protected. Originally graded 16.

FA: Yosef Murphy, John Fischer, 2007

19 R Trad 30m
32 Kampfwagon

Start on the terrace of Panzer's first belay, 4 metres right of the 'Panzer' corner.

FA: Darren Crawford, Peter Kaehenbuehl (alt), 1990

15 Trad 91m

1.5. Amok Wall 10 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maginot Line

Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height. Absolutely covered in moss these days.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1993

21 Trad 30m
2 Under Control

Line left of Amok. No gear on crux.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

22 X Trad 30m
3 * Amok

Wildy pumpy. A full set of cams is all that is needed.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Roddy McKenzie, 1981

23 Trad 30m
4 Attractively Restrained

Toproped line R of Amok. Might go on gear, large cam in pocket.

FA: @duglash,@estherenita, 2013

24 Trad 15m
5 Small Creeps

Tall creeps will do better.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln and Chris Shepherd, 1983

24 Trad 30m
6 Able-Bodied

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

25 Mixed 30m, 1
7 AB Ciege

Start at right end of wall right of Amok.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, 1981

24 Trad 20m
8 Ice is Nice

'Only in drinks' - Lou's guide

Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, 1983

21 Trad 23m
9 Chuckle Chuckle

Originally graded 18 without grinning.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

20 Trad 20m
10 Crash Bang Wallop

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

18 Trad 20m

1.6. Kitten Wall Area 79 routes in Crag

All Trad

1.6.1. Kitten Wall 32 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Feeling the Ceiling

A novelty with a good bouldering move.

Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.

FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988

22 Trad 12m
2 In Spite

Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

22 Trad 20m
3 * A Piece of Flake

Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left end of Kitten Wall, not far right of Feeling The Ceiling. Go R to chains above Indoctrination.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978

21 Trad 25m
4 APOF Variant Start


FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983

22 Mixed 25m, 1
5 Socialist Working Class Solidarity

Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination'. Desperately hard.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

25 Mixed 25m, 1
6 * Indoctrination

A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m. Chains just below the top.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

24 R Mixed 25m, 1
7 ** Claw

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 13th Nov

18 Trad 20m
8 * Puss 'n Boots

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967

19 Trad 20m
9 Lickwid Pussy

Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1981

22 Trad 20m
10 * Siamese Crack

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 4th Sep

15 Trad 25m
11 No Purpuss

The name says it all.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

23 Trad 25m
12 Manx

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 4th Sep

14 R Trad 25m
13 * Manx Right-Hand Variant

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

14 Trad 25m
14 * Cat Cracker

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

25 Trad 20m
15 ** Hard Nipples

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 R Trad 20m
16 * Cheshire Cat

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

12 Trad 22m
17 * Lynx

A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.

  1. 18m (15) From just left of gnarled old conifer go up left to traverse line and go left into "Manx". Continue left past "Siamese Crack" to an airy pedestal beside "Claw".

  2. 32m (15) Cross Claw and continue along horizontal break.

FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 5th Sep

FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977

15 Trad 50m 2
18 ** Armed Forces


Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.

FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982

25 Trad 20m
19 The Conception

Dramatic architecture. Some people find this sleazy and gross, some find it interesting and funky.. feeling lucky?

Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

23 R Trad 20m
20 ** Security Jerks

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

27 Trad 20m
21 * Cruel Britannia

A good warm-up for the steep stuff.

Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980

24 Trad 20m
22 * Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi

A better and more powerful finish. From upper R-facing corner, move up and R to reach R-trending flakes, which are followed to the top.

FA: @gtempest, 2014

23 Trad 20m
23 * Hendrix

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.

Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991

19 Trad 20m
24 ** Hey Diddle Diddle

Great little line up between Hendrix and footloose.

19 Trad 18m
25 Footloose and Fancy Free

In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977

19 Trad 20m
26 Creeque Alley

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

14 Trad 40m
27 * Practical Cats

Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - 2 retro bolts- still seems to be leadable.

Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982

22 Mixed 40m, 2
28 Spastical Cats

Dodgy pro on bottom wall

Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982

23 R Trad 40m
29 Tactical Spastical

Avoids the desperate start of Spastical Cats by starting up Tactical Cats. Nice climbing watch out for a little bit of loose looking rock.

FA: Louise Shepherd,Mike Broadbent, 1982

20 Trad 28m
30 * Tactical Cats

An enjoyable, intricate route.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982

20 Trad 40m
31 * Kitty Litter

Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985

21 Trad 25m
32 Alley Cat


FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966

12 Trad 40m

1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall 27 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hokey Pokey

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall. In a little cave below 'Cadence'

FA: Ian Anger, Terry Tremble, 1984

23 Mixed 10m, 1
2 * Tunnel of Corgis

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

  2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

FA: Cathy Blamey, Chris Shepherd (alt), 1981

23 Trad 55m 2
3 * Cadence

Lovely slab leads to awkward roof.

Bolt is rusty and rock looks loose in roof.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the starting corner of Tunnel Of Corgis.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim Thomas, 1981

24 Trad 40m
4 * Celluloid Heroes

An interesting climb which is tough for the grade. Maybe it should be 23. Double ropes are handy as it weaves around. Chains on top.

Start at the left-facing flake-corner halfway along the wall. This is also the start of Strangers Eliminate. Up the corner to pedestal, up to roof and L. Through the roof and follow the flake then finish through the bulge.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger (alt as 2 pitches), 1980

22 Trad 25m
5 * Surprise

A good roof but rarely climbed because it used to require the now-defunct 'Slider' nuts. Maybe modern mini-cams would work?

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

26 Trad 40m
6 ** Strangers Eliminate

A pretty exciting wall climb which requires a good head to deal with the small wire protection and unconventional moves prior to the bolt. 1st pitch ends at a rap chain, but the 2nd pitch shouldn't be ignored.

Start: Start at the left-facing flake corner about halfway along the wall (Start of Celluloid Heroes).

  1. 27m (20) Climb crack or left wall for 4 metres and then move onto the right wall. Continue onwards with fiddly protection then bolts leading to roof. Move right beneath roof to vertical step and up to stance at higher roof.

  2. 27m (17) Traverse left under roof to tricky move and lip then more easily up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

20 R Trad 54m 2
7 Strangers Direct Start

A much bolder proposition to the original route. Starts right of the corner and joins the original line at the mantle (small ledge), then continue as for that route.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

20 Trad 27m
8 Odd Spots

Climb directly to flake on Stranger's Eliminate. Boldly up grey streak to ledge on 'Celluloid Heroes'. Up to roof then a reachy move leads to juggy flakes.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Stranger's Eliminate on face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

24 Trad 40m
9 ** My Soul to Keep

An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.

Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.

Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

27 Trad 35m
10 ** Credit Crunch

Technical climbing on perfect rock. Start 5m left of Bad Cheques, just right of 'My Soul To Keep'. Up past three bolts to join Stranger's Eliminate at it's bolt. Let me know what you think of the grade and stars. I'm bad at grading.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

24 Mixed 25m, 4
11 Eclipse

A daunting traverse below the huge roof on the right-hand half of 'Tjuringa Wall'. If not always great climbing, it's certainly a great experience.

Take a large cam or two. Very large cams or tubes would help but are not essential. The final pitch could be quite amusing without double ropes or the skills to back-rope with a single.

  1. 27m (20) As for Stanger's Eliminate.

  2. 35m (19) Traverse right to stance and anchor for 'Tjuringa'.

  3. 24m (20) Continue right past end of roof, drop down off lip of overhang and pull in to right. Traverse right to In Lieu's belay cave. Traverse off right.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1976

20 Trad 120m 3
12 ** Bad Cheques

Well named. An unprotected start (crux) above an awful landing (the block) leads to the first gear in a good horizontal (cam). Fairly well protected and great climbing after that leads to the chain on Stranger's. It is possible to place a wire in a 2-finger pocket at the start, but it is debatable protection to say the least. If you do it this way, then a wired hex is recommended. Graded to take into account the seriousness.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

24 R Trad 30m
13 *** Tjuringa / Tjuringa Pitch 2

One of the most outstanding routes at 'Arapiles'. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, but some poor gear. The piton should be treated with respect! Both pitches graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 35m (25) Up the face then left and up flakes. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 25m (25) Jug out roof past old peg and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

FA: Tobin Sorensen,John Allen, 1979

25 R Trad 15m 3
14 ** Orgasmo

One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

28 Trad 35m
15 ** Lats Have Feelings Too

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

28 Trad 25m
16 * Hi Mum!

This is now considered a variant first pitch to 'Common Knowledge' but it originally had a hard (grade 25), second pitch which joined 'Common Knowledge' higher up. Tha hard section of that pitch is now the start of 'Lats Have Feelings Too'. Varied climbing up to the notch, then follow the right trending overlap and surmount it - then straight up to CK belay.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

24 Trad 60m
17 *** Common Knowledge

A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.

Start: Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.

  1. 25m (23) Up wall past bolt and through right-leading line to ledge. Traverse left into right-hand flake and follow this until able to climb wall to semi-hanging belay below roof. Make sure the anchor can withstand an upwards force!

  2. 25m (24) Up right-curving flake, back left to small overlap. Up headwall a few moves then traverse right, demanding with plenty of exposure, for a few metres then go up to anchor (30 metre rappel)

FA: Mark Moorhead led both pitches with Chris Shepherd, Tony Dignan seconding respectively., 1981

24 Trad 50m 2
18 * Akakage

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988

27 Mixed 50m, 3
19 In Lieu 20 Trad 52m
20 ** In Lieu direct finish

A contrasting second pitch with good rock and protection. From the recess Step up right onto stance. up and left via incuts and slots surmounting the overlap on its left. Left past bolt then directly up. At top step left to anchors on Common Knowledge

FA: Mark Wood, Eddy Mofardin, Mars Mofardin, 2012

20 Mixed 18m, 1
21 Tynee Tips 24 Trad 45m
22 * Perfect Stranger 25 Trad 42m
23 * Strange Tenants 24 Trad 30m
24 * Stranger and Stranger 22 Trad 35m
25 Messy Houses

Maybe this has been retrobolted with 2 bolts? Feels more like 21 than 19 though. Not as good as it looks unfortunately.

19 Trad 20m
26 Moving Out 17 Trad 15m
27 Bolshevik 22 Trad 10m

1.6.3. Bolero Wall 5 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stranger Danger

Arete left of 'Bolero'.

FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988

20 Trad 10m
2 Bolero

Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, 14th Sep

13 Trad 10m
3 Rolling Stone

Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Phil Grossi, Rein Kamar, 1969

14 Trad 11m
4 Snide Effects

No protection.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (solo), 1983

20 R Trad 10m
5 Side Effects

Up flake to peg runner and on to ledge. Traverse right to break and then hard finish up to boulder.

Start: Start at short flake on left side of orange wall right of 'Bolero'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcom Matheson, 1981

21 Trad 20m

1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress 15 routes in Cliff

Description:© (boardlord)

The right side of the main part of 'Tjuringa Wall' is marked by a prominent left-facing flake-chimney.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chip Chop

Chossy crack left of 'Hyperbola' to roof. Traverse out right and up arete.

FA: Kin Carrigan, Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, 1983

22 Trad 15m
2 * Hyperbola Left Hand Variant

Very exciting.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

22 Trad 15m
3 Hyperbola

The T-shaped roof on this is a prominent landmark on the track to Kitten Wall.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, Phillip Stranger, 24th Sep

17 Trad 13m
4 Hyperbole

Good steep wall climbing up narrow face between 'Hyperbola' and 'Black Cat'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris and Sue Baxter, Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

17 Trad 10m
5 Black Cat

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976

10 Trad 15m
6 Tynee Tips

An attractive but serious lead.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan, 1981

24 R Mixed 42m, 1
7 * Stranger And Stranger

Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Lpouise Shepherd, 1982

22 Trad 35m
8 Bolshevik

Shallow corner capped by little roof, left of 'Bolero'.

FA: Duncan Critchley (solo), 1984

22 Trad 10m
9 Messy Houses

Start as for Stranger and Stranger but just before horizontal break climb straight up wall to top.

FA: Louise and Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

19 Trad 20m
10 * The Sociopath Next Door

Delicate face climbing

Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants

Up to Bolt, then break and on to 2nd Bolt.Up slightly right and up slab (Trad) to Rap Station for In Lieu.

FA: Joel Wilson, 2008

22 Mixed 30m, 2
11 * Strange Tennants

The fingery wall right of 'Perfect Stranger' finishing as for 'In Lieu'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

24 Mixed 30m, 1
12 Moving Out

Good slabby climbing with an enjoyable finish. Start: High micro-cam to start. Step off block and pull arete onto ledge. Up slab past a bolt to headwall. Move 2m R and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1982

17 R Mixed 20m, 1
13 Changing Places

Surprisingly good wall climbing 2m R of 'Moving Out'. The initial wall (above the undercut arete of 'Moving Out' is bold but has positive holds. Take a few small cams for the first half of the route. The upper headwall is the same as for 'Moving Out'.

FA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2015

17 Trad 20m
14 * In Lieu

The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.

  1. 18m (19) Pleasant short flake-crack to ledge. Now fight your way into the bottomless slot. From the chimney, swing over the next overhang and belay in recess.

  2. 34m (17) Step out right and traverse past two old bolts. The route originally traversed off right but it's much better at second bolt to climb bulge and then flake corner above.

FA: Peter Jackson., 23rd Sep

FA: Direct finish : John Moore, Alec Campbell, Chris Dewhirst, 1966

19 Mixed 52m 2, 2
15 * Perfect Stranger

The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

25 Trad 42m

1.7. Watchtower Area Boulders 17 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.838356, -36.750451

1.7.1. Richochet Rock 3 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 141.839112, -36.751074

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Traverse V2 Boulder
2 Richochet V2 Boulder 5m
3 Up line to jugs V1 Boulder

1.7.2. The Gumnut 10 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 141.837533, -36.750330

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1) V1 Boulder 6m
2 2) Boulder
3 3) V4 Boulder 5m
4 4) V1 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Face between arete and cave V0+ Boulder
6 Into cave and chimney out L V0+ Boulder
7 V4 Problem V4 Boulder 6m
8 R leading line V3 Boulder 6m
9 Slab V2 Boulder 5m
10 Short slab V1 Boulder 3m

1.7.3. Moody Blues Boulder 4 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 141.837441, -36.749415

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Up the lip V4 Boulder
2 Moody Blues V6 Boulder
3 Swing Wing of the Northern Group V3 Boulder
4 Sit start, up arete V4 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 No Charlie, It Wasn't Trad 10m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
5 *** Tiptoe Ridge Trad 120m 5 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
** Introductory Route Trad 140m 4 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Bindi Trad 25m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Rotten Row Trad 60m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Tschumpel Trad 42m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
6 Ordinary Trees Trad 150m 4 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
7 Senile Trad 40m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
8 Beer and Trembling Trad 10m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Falling Numbers Trad 20m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start Trad 30m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
*** Siren Trad 150m 5 1.1.4. Siren Area
9 Kermit Trad 20m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Tauraroa Trad 120m 1.1.4. Siren Area
*** Arachnus Trad 110m 4 1.3. The Watchtower
9 R *** Arachnus Variant (Minerva) Trad 120m 4 1.3. The Watchtower
10 Identifying Bill Clinton Trad 12m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Aphrodite Trad 95m 3 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
** Xena Trad 110m 4 1.1.4. Siren Area
*** Arachnus Chimeny Chimney Trad 99m 4 1.3. The Watchtower
Black Cat Trad 15m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
11 The Slot Trad 100m 2 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
12 Mentor Trad 36m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Moonlighting Trad 40m 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
Chookfest 93 Trad 30m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
** Siren Direct Finish Trad 40m 1.1.4. Siren Area
** Watchtower Chimney Mixed 110m 4, 1 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
* A Rack of Phobias Trad 110m 1.3. The Watchtower
** Panzer Trad 95m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Alley Cat Trad 40m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Cheshire Cat Trad 22m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
13 Hillary's Dog Trad 10m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Golden Apples Trad 95m 3 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
Tiptoe Corner Trad 35m 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
Barren Waste Trad 170m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Chameleon Connection Trad 110m 4 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Joyride Trad 100m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Bolero Trad 10m 1.6.3. Bolero Wall
14 Carnal Intent Trad 15m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Lusts of the Flesh Trad 14m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
The Green Singer Trad 130m 4 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
** Driftwood/Antigone Trad 120m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Blue Tongue Trad 85m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Chameleon Trad 90m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
* Gecko Trad 48m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Gecko / Salamander Link Trad 100m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Lounge Lizard Trad 95m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
** Mantle Trad 94m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
** Salamander Trad 120m 5 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Creeque Alley Trad 40m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Manx Right-Hand Variant Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Rolling Stone Trad 11m 1.6.3. Bolero Wall
14 R *** Hot Flap Mixed 170m 5, 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Manx Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
15 His Master's Vice Trad 15m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Siren Left Wall Mixed 30m, 2 1.1.4. Siren Area
* Antigone Trad 120m 3 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Pantouflage Trad 96m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
** Sundance Trad 140m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
** colonal's eleven Trad 30m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Kampfwagon Trad 91m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Monitor Trad 100m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
** Smeagol Trad 110m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
* Lynx Trad 50m 2 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Siamese Crack Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
15 X Sidewinder Mixed 180m, 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
16 Another Chelsea Morning Trad 10m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Earthly Pleasures Trad 15m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Scuttlebutt Trad 10m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Wedding Tackle Trad 20m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Llama Sutra Trad 8m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
PearI Jam Trad 16m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Flamingo Trad 25m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Thank Heavens for the Tasman Trad 95m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
*** Watchtower Crack Mixed 100m 4, 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
16 R Between the Lines Trad 53m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Home of the Brave Trad 140m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
* Hot Flap Direct Start Trad 50m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
*** Brolga Trad 120m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
* The Confession Trad 45m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
17 * Creon Trad 95m 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Tauraroa Direct Start Trad 25m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Moving Out Trad 15m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Changing Places Trad 20m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
Hyperbola Trad 13m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
Hyperbole Trad 10m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
17 R ** Oedipus Rex Trad 150m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Moving Out Mixed 20m, 1 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
V0+ Face between arete and cave Boulder 1.7.2. The Gumnut
Into cave and chimney out L Boulder 1.7.2. The Gumnut
18 Father Figure Trad 16m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
* Free Beer Trad 30m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine Trad 30m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Through the Tulips Trad 10m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
* Tales of Brave Ulysses Trad 40m 1.1.4. Siren Area
*** Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses Trad 110m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Driftwood Trad 120m 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Man Overboard Trad 55m 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Business as Usual Trad 110m 1.3. The Watchtower
** Omaha Beach Mixed 80m 3, 1 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
*** Skink Trad 110m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Skink Connection Trad 25m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
* Waiwera (Brolga DF) Trad 20m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Watches Trad 25m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Crash Bang Wallop Trad 20m 1.5. Amok Wall
** Claw Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
18 R Roll Dem Bones Trad 100m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
* Sang Froid Trad 130m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
18 X Puppet on a String Trad 50m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
19 Let Them Eat Ralph Trad 15m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
* Argonauts Trad 40m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
The Burning Fields Mixed 33m, 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
*** Wall of the Afternoon Sun Trad 140m 4 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Footloose and Fancy Free Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Hendrix Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
** Hey Diddle Diddle Trad 18m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Puss 'n Boots Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Messy Houses Trad 20m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* In Lieu Mixed 52m 2, 2 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
Messy Houses Trad 20m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
19 R Battle Of The Bulge Trad 30m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
V1 Up line to jugs Boulder 1.7.1. Richochet Rock
1) Boulder 6m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
4) Boulder 5m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
Short slab Boulder 3m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
20 Furphy Trad 20m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
Rumour Trad 10m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
* Bossy Mothers Mixed 15m, 1 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Cruella de Ville Trad 15m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Oedipal Wrecks Trad 30m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Radio Days Trad 95m 3 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Red Sky At Night Mixed 30m, 2 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Sunset Strait Trad 60m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
Chuckle Chuckle Trad 20m 1.5. Amok Wall
* Tactical Cats Trad 40m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Tactical Spastical Trad 28m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Eclipse Trad 120m 3 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
In Lieu Trad 52m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
** In Lieu direct finish Mixed 18m, 1 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Strangers Direct Start Trad 27m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Stranger Danger Trad 10m 1.6.3. Bolero Wall
20 R *** Take Five Trad 140m 3 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
* Watchtower Chimney Direct Start Trad 15m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
** Gollum Trad 60m 2 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
** Strangers Eliminate Trad 54m 2 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Snide Effects Trad 10m 1.6.3. Bolero Wall
20 X ** Fly Lichen Eagle Trad 90m 2 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
V2 Richochet Boulder 5m 1.7.1. Richochet Rock
Traverse Boulder 1.7.1. Richochet Rock
Slab Boulder 5m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
21 The Last Kind of Hunger Trad 90m 3 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
No Road Between Trad 40m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Perentie Mixed 50m, 1 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Ice is Nice Trad 23m 1.5. Amok Wall
Maginot Line Trad 30m 1.5. Amok Wall
* A Piece of Flake Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Kitty Litter Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Side Effects Trad 20m 1.6.3. Bolero Wall
21 R *** Auto Da Fe Trad 90m 3 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
22 * Consenting Adults Trad 40m 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
APOF Variant Start Mixed 25m, 1 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Feeling the Ceiling Trad 12m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
In Spite Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Practical Cats Mixed 40m, 2 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Bolshevik Trad 10m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Celluloid Heroes Trad 25m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Stranger and Stranger Trad 35m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Bolshevik Trad 10m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
Chip Chop Trad 15m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
* Hyperbola Left Hand Variant Trad 15m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
* Stranger And Stranger Trad 35m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
* The Sociopath Next Door Mixed 30m, 2 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
22 R ** Hard Nipples Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
22 X auto de fear Trad 40m 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
Under Control Trad 30m 1.5. Amok Wall
V3 R leading line Boulder 6m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
Swing Wing of the Northern Group Boulder 1.7.3. Moody Blues Boulder
23 Inextricably Trad 12m 1.1.1. Wedding Tackle Area
No Buts Trad 40m 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
Just Out of Habit Trad 20m 1.1.3. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
If You're Lucky Trad 40m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
* Stumpy Tail Trad 110m 4 1.3. The Watchtower
* Amok Trad 30m 1.5. Amok Wall
* Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
No Purpuss Trad 25m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Hokey Pokey Mixed 10m, 1 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Tunnel of Corgis Trad 55m 2 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
23 R * Next of Kin Trad 40m 1.1.2. Tiptoe Ridge Area
Spastical Cats Trad 40m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
The Conception Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
23 X * Pumping Part II Trad 88m 2 1.4. Right Watchtower Face
V4 3) Boulder 5m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
V4 Problem Boulder 6m 1.7.2. The Gumnut
Sit start, up arete Boulder 1.7.3. Moody Blues Boulder
Up the lip Boulder 1.7.3. Moody Blues Boulder
24 AB Ciege Trad 20m 1.5. Amok Wall
Attractively Restrained Trad 15m 1.5. Amok Wall
Small Creeps Trad 30m 1.5. Amok Wall
* Cruel Britannia Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Cadence Trad 40m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
*** Common Knowledge Trad 50m 2 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
** Credit Crunch Mixed 25m, 4 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Hi Mum! Trad 60m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Odd Spots Trad 40m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Strange Tenants Trad 30m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Tynee Tips Trad 45m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Strange Tennants Mixed 30m, 1 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
24 R * Indoctrination Mixed 25m, 1 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
** Bad Cheques Trad 30m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
Tynee Tips Mixed 42m, 1 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
25 * Pumping Trad 120m 1.3. The Watchtower
Able-Bodied Mixed 30m, 1 1.5. Amok Wall
** Armed Forces Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Cat Cracker Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
Socialist Working Class Solidarity Mixed 25m, 1 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Perfect Stranger Trad 42m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
* Perfect Stranger Trad 42m 1.6.4. Hyperbole Buttress
25 R *** Tjuringa Trad 15m 3 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
26 ** Xenomorph Mixed 30m, 3 1.3. The Watchtower
* Surprise Trad 40m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
V6 Moody Blues Boulder 1.7.3. Moody Blues Boulder
27 ** Security Jerks Trad 20m 1.6.1. Kitten Wall
* Akakage Mixed 50m, 3 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
** My Soul to Keep Trad 35m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
28 ** Lats Have Feelings Too Trad 25m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
** Orgasmo Trad 35m 1.6.2. Tjuringa Wall
? New Route (name coming soon)) Trad 60m 1.2. Left Watchtower Face
2) Boulder 1.7.2. The Gumnut
-- ** Mr Chicken Trad 20m 1.3. The Watchtower