- Height: 170m
- Bolts: 2
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 182
- Description:© (kieranl)
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.
Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.
30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.
32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.
50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.
35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 1965
Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|14 R||Community registered grade|
|14**||Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed|
|14||Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
|14||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|14 R ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 73%
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