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Description:© (kieranl)

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

  2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

  3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

  4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

  5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 14 Feb 1965


Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Lat/Long: -36.752078,141.838284

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 R Community registered grade
14** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
14 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 R *** ACA Route Register
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 73%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux sustained hard pleasant super fun cool nice perfect fantastic good classy great enjoyable superb awesome scary fall runout tricky exposed rest interesting roof short face easy pockets traverse slabby

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