- Height: 130m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 2
- Description:© (kieranl)
Marginal protection on first pitch. Both this pitch and the its next-door neighbour 'Puppet' On A String are very good pitches but possibly the most serious of their grades at 'Arapiles'. Still not sure if they deserve the skull-and-crossbones (have taken them off this climb) but they are very serious.
Peter Watling accidentally climbed this pitch in the 70's thinking it was 'Hot Flap' Direct Start!
50m (18) Climb up midway between the black moss streaks to join 'Hot Flap'. Belay when rope runs out.
35m (-) Up to Siren's corner and climb right wall to stance just below Hot Flap's fourth pitch traverse.
35m (17) Up over traverse line then delicately up on black rock to two horizontal cracks. Step right to runners then back left and up impressive headwall to terrace.
10m (-) Groove in final wall.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 1983
Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18 R||Community registered grade|
|18||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|18 R *||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 17%
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