- Height: 150m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 49
- Description:© (kieranl)
Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special.
Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).
30m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with Creon). Get some runners, don't rely only on the fragile-looking thread, then traverse right under bulge, veer up right for 4 metres then straight up to belay at old bolt. Not a lot of good protection after the thread.
45m (13) Up broken area to big ledge and on up to 'Rotten Row'.
42m (14) Climb black bulge then smooth wall to bolt. On up face to left end of sloping ledge and up left to bigger ledge.
30m (16) Step right and up small, left-facing corner to the roof. Take flake through ceiling with hard move at lip. Easily up. Original finish took steep flake directly above belay (17) and then up through overhangs.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett & Clive Parker, 1968
Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|17 R||Community registered grade|
|17 R *||ACA Route Register|
|17||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|17||Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
Overall quality score: 62%
Learn about creating circuits.
Check out what is happening on Oedipus Rex (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.